One of the indispensable attributes of every hunter is a knife. For many, he is the subject of attention and even pride, his choice is approached with all care.

For the correct selection of a hunting knife, you need to decide on how to use it during hunting. If we exclude extreme situations, such as hand-to-hand combat, for example with a hare, then a hunting knife is used to finish off a wounded animal, to skin game, for camping, tourist and household purposes. In a good way, four different ones would be suitable for all this, in the first case it is better to use something like a dagger, in the second a small convenient knife with a long drop-point type bend, for kitchen purposes any small one with a thin blade, and for hiking forest, on the contrary, a large survivalist or army cleaver.

Due to all this, the best hunting blades are either the best representatives of highly specialized blades, or partially universal ones that are successful in terms of combination of characteristics, since unfortunately there is no absolutely universal hunting knife. What is convenient to cut through thickets and chop wood is not very suitable for peeling potatoes or skinning. Therefore, having taken up the choice of a knife, the hunter must assume what kind of hunting he will have, taiga search, ambush for a duck or command for a large animal, and what he will have to do with it. It's often better to have a few than none.

We present a rating of ten knives that are very popular, well-deserved respect and, according to most hunters, are excellent in their application. This includes both types of knives, which are a specific shape and concept, made by many manufacturers, as well as individual models that are successful. individual development, based on careful calculation and analysis, from a specific manufacturer.

Buck 110BRS is a knife from Buck Knives, the only folding knife in our rating. This good hunting blade has been produced by the company since 1962, and during this time it has earned a reputation as a reliable tool, equal in strength to monolithic ones.

Made of steel 420 NS, hardness 56-58, Macassar Ebony wood handle with copper inserts. Comes with a lifetime warranty. Blade length 95 mm, total device 220 mm. The blade is suitable for skinning carcasses, as well as for domestic camping needs.

Compact, lightweight, reliable, relatively versatile.

A short blade and it's still not a monolithic knife.

Price 3000 - 5000 rubles. (1480 - 2400 UAH)

Military

Military is a group of multifunctional knives of military origin and design. Many hunters prefer them for their versatility, convenience, often habit, or brutality.

This includes both the classic army models HP-40, HP-43 "Cherry", "Finca NKVD", "Vityaz", the American "Ka-Bar Next Generation Fighter", etc. or their hiking and tourist replicas. Most of them are more than 150 mm long, more than 3 mm thick butt with sorreytor sharpening, Bowie or Spear-point blade shape, handles made of ergonomic artificial materials with a cross or a well-defined stop.

Most of these knives, due to their military origin and sick multitasking, do an excellent job with most hunting tasks, especially if the hunt is of a camping type, regardless of its model. But you need to pay attention that many of them are prohibited, free circulation and require permission.

Among civilian modifications of such weapons, we can recommend the Military knife, manufactured by the Kizlyar plant. Blade with a slight decrease in butt, tapered towards the tip and wide descents from the middle. Product length 287 mm, blades - 160 mm, butt thickness 5.2 mm, AUS-8 steel, hardness 55 - 57 HRC, with a black matte finish. A solid blade is passed through the entire handle, forming a “cullet” in the back, the material of the handle is elastron. This is a good knife for a hike, but it will do an excellent job of butchering and skinning carcasses, especially large ones. It is allowed for free circulation, and has a very nice price.

Knives are quite versatile, reliable, multifunctional, have a brutal look.

Most of these blades require permission and are not suitable for skinning small carcasses.

Price: Kizlyar "Military" - 2550 rubles. (1250 UAH)

Model 007 - a hunting knife from the gunsmith Pampukha I.Yu. It has been produced for over 20 years and is the most popular model of this workshop. Stainless damask steel is forged personally by the master, total length - 263 mm, blade - 145 mm, butt - 4 mm, hardness 60-63 HRC, wooden handle.

A very well-balanced, high-quality, well-thought-out hunting knife with a classic shape. Special properties are obtained due to the sharpening angles and the forging method. Possessing excellent cutting properties, withstands high loads. This versatile blade is good at skinning and butchering game. Would be a perfect choice if it weren't for the price.

High-quality, reliable, almost universal.

High price.

Price 21000 rub. (10000 UAH)

The fisherman's knife is a whole group, similar in form, function and appearance. The fisherman is a fairly versatile hunting blade, designed primarily for skinning and butchering trophies. A knife with a straight wooden handle (usually Karelian birch), usually simple and smooth, sometimes with a notch for the index finger.

The length of the blade is about 120 - 180 mm, the bend of the blade is slightly longer than usual, sharpening from a third to the middle of the blade. The main emphasis of the metal is on anti-corrosion properties. It usually comes with a sheath.

Similar blades are produced by different manufacturers under the names "Promyslovik", "Poacher", "Taiga", etc.

Relatively versatile, great for butchering animals.

They do not solve all the issues in the campaign.

Price: 2600 - 18000 rubles. (1400 - 10000 UAH)

Spyderco Bill Moran is a knife from the USA, a joint creation of the famous designer Bill Moran and Spyderco. One of the lightest (84 g) and durable models on the market. The length of this model is 203 mm, the blade is 99 mm, VG-10 steel. It is thanks to the very strong Japanese stainless steel that the cutter is so strong and light.

The blade is very good, it does an excellent job both with skinning trophies, even quite large ones, and with many household issues during hunting, and due to its weight, or rather its absence, it will not make it difficult during any transition and can be used without problems as a second special one. The disadvantage is the cast handle instead of surface mounting.

Strong, light, reliable, good for skinning.

Short blade.

Price: 8000 - 11000 rubles. (3600-4500 UAH)

The Yakut hunting knife is a traditional knife of Yakutia, known for more than one hundred years, it belongs to the universal hunting knife. Differs in wide functionality, as well as simplicity and ease of use, it is optimal for taiga hunting. It is a pointed blade with a straight butt, a narrow blade with an asymmetric sharpening, 110 - 170 mm long. Steel is forged by local blacksmiths using their own technologies, reaching a strength of 56-60HRC.

On the right side of the blade is a reinforcing dol. The handle is straight, without stops and crosses, the handle is oval in cross section, a little longer than a palm. Made from a single piece of birch burl, impregnated with oils to protect against moisture. A good knife can be bought in Yakutia itself, where they are widely produced, but can also be found in a number of online stores.

Versatile enough for hunting and hiking, reliable.

It is difficult to buy a high-quality, original blade.

Price: 4000 - 20000 rubles. (3000 UAH)

Benchmade Hidden Canyon is another US knife from Benchmade. This is a good hunting blade, if not one of the best at the moment. He appeared recently, but has already managed to firmly gain popularity among hunters. Blade type Drop Point, 65 mm long, with a total length of the product 160 mm, butt thickness 3.5 mm. Steel S30V hardness 58-60 HRC.

The G-10 handle is non-absorbent so won't slip. He excels at skinning and butchering game. Quite versatile and comfortable to wear. Would be perfect for hunting if not for the short blade.

An excellent blade for working with a trophy, thoughtful, high-quality, reliable.

Very short blade.

Price: 9000 - 11000 rubles. (4600 - 6000 UAH)

Berkut - from the Kizlyar plant, a model that has been produced for more than ten years, is widely sold and has become quite popular. Kizlyar blades, among domestic ones, are distinguished by a good price-quality ratio, and this model especially emphasizes this.

This is a knife with a bowie-type blade, on the straight bevel of the butt there is an additional sharpening for cutting small bones, on the heel of the blade there is a sub-finger notch. The length is only 285 mm, the blade is 160 mm, French steel Z60CDV14, hardness 56 - 58 HRC. The handle is made of Caucasian crepe, protected from moisture. The golden eagle is a good universal blade, thanks to its shape it is perfect for skinning, butchering and for work in field conditions. The only downside is that it belongs to melee weapons and requires permission.

Published: 15.12.2012

Hunting melee weapons

To edged weapons designed to inflict bodily harm on an animal (animal, bird); for cutting carcasses, skinning, cooking, equipping a place to sleep, etc. various operations related to hunting include:

hunting knife,
- dagger,
- cleaver
-- stylet,
-- a spear,
- a horn.

For example, a knife can be recognized as a melee weapon only on the basis of a combination of signs, including:

Blade length more than 90 mm;
-- the tip of the blade, adapted for an injection (a number of geometric parameters of the blade are listed in GOSTs)
-- a handle that provides a secure hold when pricked
-- the strength of the blade or the entire design of the knife (the material and hardness of the blade, design features, etc. are taken into account).

In modern practice, the manufacturer or seller of knives certify products at the Expert Forensic Center of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Russian Federation, receiving a certificate that classifies the knife as a household tool or weapon. When purchasing a knife, the buyer can receive an “Information Sheet” containing a description of the knife, an expert opinion, its date and number, and the coordinates of the body that carried out the examination.

How to choose the right knife

Connoisseurs and connoisseurs of hunting knives often discuss the steel grades that are used to make blades. At the same time, the chemical composition of steel, the structure of the alloy, manufacturing technologies and other subtleties are considered. But the opinion is often expressed that a simple consumer does not need to delve into such complex details and become a home-grown steelworker. If our goal is simply to buy a quality hunting knife that will serve for many years and please its owner, then just remember a few simple facts. Of course, you won’t pass for an expert, but you will get closer to a competent consumer and user.

BLADE STEEL IS NOT IMPORTANT

That is, of course, it is useful to know the brand of blade steel and understand what this means. But what does this give us? First you need to figure out why the knife is needed at all and what qualities it should have.

The knife must cut. Sometimes it is convenient to pierce something with a blade, pick it off.
The knife must NOT: hacking, sawing, working with a poker and a jack - this is not its scope.
Accordingly, we expect good cutting properties from a knife (easiness of cut, sharpness and “so that it does not dull for a long time”), strength.

What makes a knife cut?

Without going into the details of metal science, let's say that due to its geometry. Not due to sharpness and good steel, but due to the shape of the blade, the angle of sharpening and other characteristics that ensure easy penetration and destruction of the material being cut. Accordingly, the blade geometry is the first thing the consumer should pay attention to. The thinner the knife, the better it cuts, all other things being equal. It is generally accepted that a thin blade works best, in cross section it is a thin isosceles triangle (wedge). The closer the blade section to such a figure, the better the knife will cut bread, vegetables and everything else. However, the strength of such a blade is low, and when cutting hard materials or chopping something, a knife with such a section of the blade will become dull rather quickly. Therefore, quite often a slightly different section is used - a wedge with a supply. It looks like the same wedge, but the cutting edge is sharpened at a more obtuse angle, about 30-40 degrees. This solution makes it possible to increase the thickness cutting edge and increase its strength, while maintaining good cutting properties of the blade.

HANDLE

The next thing that makes working with a knife easy and enjoyable is the handle. Here everyone chooses for himself, for his needs and his hands. You cannot choose a knife from the picture or just by looking at the display case - you must definitely hold the knife in your hands, try what it will be like to work with it in warm gloves, if it is not a kitchen knife. It is important that there are no sharp corners and numerous notches on the handle; they can dent the hand during operation. The decorated handles of gift knives very often turn out to be inconvenient precisely because of the abundance of protrusions, as well as handles that are round in cross section, due to which the knife can turn in the hand.

We also note that in vain many people are contemptuous of handles made of synthetic materials, preferring wood, birch bark, bone or leather. Modern plastics are very comfortable in the hand, provide a secure hold of the knife with a minimum of handle care. Synthetics look, of course, not always as “smart” as some kind of golden veined tree. But natural material can darken, absorb dirt and odors, crack or get wet, while plastics (and even then not all) are only afraid of solvents like acetone or very severe frosts, in which they become less durable.

JACKKNIFE

Folding knife - a kind of knife, the blade of which is retracted into the handle. Modern folding knives often have one-handed opening tools, such as a peg or hole. Folding knives are convenient in urban environments due to their small size. If you buy a folding knife, be very careful about how the mechanism works. Now most knives have a locking lock that locks the knife in the open position (it is often called a latch). Most often it is a liner lock ( liner lock, linear lock) in the form of a spring-loaded plate hidden in the handle.

The liner is not the most complex lock, it does not require special attention and care, it is simple and reliable in operation, provided it is properly manufactured. When buying, look very carefully at how the lock mechanism works, how well it holds the blade, how convenient it is to open and close the knife. A well-made fold should open conveniently and easily (without undue effort), and at the same time not have longitudinal and transverse backlashes in the open position. The blade should not “wobble” if you try to shake it with force in the opening-closing plane, as well as in the “break” direction. By itself, a small backlash during operation
it is practically not noticeable, but its presence in a new knife indicates a low quality of workmanship and a possible early retirement of the knife.

Also, in addition to the liner lock, a lot of different types of locks are also used. The simple requirements and methods of quality control described above are generally the same for all folding knives.

Folding knife should be convenient and easy to open. Now most folding knives have special holes, protrusions, pins or washers on the blade, allowing you to quickly open it with one hand, most often with a movement of your thumb. The location and shape of the knife opener should be convenient for you and your hands, since everyone's palms and fingers are different.

When choosing a knife, you should definitely consider how and where you will carry it. The clumsy must have a comfortable sheath that securely holds the knife - there is nothing more offensive than losing your favorite blade. When buying a folding one, you should try to put it in your pocket, attach it to a belt, try to remove it, quickly get it - check how comfortable the knife is not only to use, but also to wear. The general consensus is that thick heavy folding knives with protruding parts in the pocket are not convenient to carry. Now most folders are made light, relatively “flat” and with a special clip that allows you to attach a knife to a belt or pocket. Treat this springy detail with distrust: carrying a knife on an unreliable "clothespin" is the easiest way to lose it. The clip should not be too thick, hard or too soft, otherwise it will not hold the knife or, on the contrary, will hold it too hard.

BLADE STEEL

So, the knife has a comfortable handle, a well-made lock and cuts well. So where does the brand of steel?
The steel grade is actually its encoded chemical composition, which is quite strictly limited by the standards. Depending on the material of the blade, the knife can rust, dull quickly, be difficult to sharpen, easily bend or break at the slightest load. But, again, the steel grade does not play the only decisive role here. The quality of hardening is a very important factor, depending on it, the blade may be too soft, bend and quickly become dull (not finished) or brittle and brittle (overheated). Unfortunately, it is impossible to determine the quality of hardening “by eye”.

Many manufacturers in the catalogs indicate the hardness of the blade. Usually around the world, this indicator is measured in Rockwell units and is denoted by HRc. For knives, this indicator is measured in the range from 40 to 60 units, a range from 52 to 58 units is considered good for small pocket knives. A knife with a hardness of 60 or more HRc should be treated carefully - this is either a product of the highest technology at an appropriate price, or simply a fraud of the buyer. However, the presence of a catalog with the specified characteristics of the knife already speaks of the manufacturer's attentive attitude to the buyer and to the products, and is a positive signal for a purchase.

But, again returning to the title of the article, what is a steel grade and is it worth paying attention to it? Still worth it. We consider it unnecessary and uninteresting to talk in detail about the types of steels and the classification of grades. Let's just point out a few grades of the most common knife steels and explain what this can mean.

Of the domestic steels, steel 65X13 is considered the most common for knives. The letter "X" means chrome and indicates that the steel is stainless. Medical scalpels and other instruments are most commonly made from this steel, which is why it is often referred to significantly as "surgical" or "medical" steel. This is a rather soft steel, a knife from 65X13 is easy to sharpen, but also quickly dulls. The only indisputable advantage of this steel is that it really never rusts. Almost all domestic knife consumer goods are made from it, often branding products with the name of the city of Vorsma, Nizhny Novgorod Region (partly in
this is the fault of some manufacturers who flooded the market with low-quality goods in the 90s, and partly - a campaign to discredit Vorsma craftsmen by other manufacturers). Some craftsmen are able to work with 65X13 with high quality, hardening to normal hardness, but this is rather a rarity. In general, we can say that this is steel for an inexpensive working knife. The closest analogue of the domestic 65X13 can be considered American steel grade 425mod.

Steel 65G- This is a "rusting" spring steel, popular for both serial and artisanal knives.
Most of the so-called "throwing knives" are made from it, and quite rarely carving knives. However, if a neighbor in the garage made a homemade knife, then it will most likely be a knife from a spring, that is, from 65G steel. Steel rusts a lot, has an unpleasant feature of bursting under loads, or being strongly released (or underheated) and bending very easily. The tendency to rust in the factory is often tried to be neutralized with various polymer coatings of the blade or oxidation (bluing), but any coating is ever erased and in any case does not provide 100% corrosion protection. However, 65G is one of the cheapest knife materials, and it cuts quite well, so knives from this steel will be made for a long time to come. Worthy specimens, alas, come across extremely rarely.

Steel 40X12– very soft steel. Cheap domestic kitchen knives and souvenir blades are made from it. Steel is difficult to harden, so the products are very easily bent, the knives quickly become dull. However, in the kitchen, such knives are acceptable, since they do not rust under any conditions, they sharpen very easily and do not require additional care. Moreover, if you are used to working in the kitchen "in a European manner", constantly adjusting the knife with musat, a knife from 40X13 is a good choice.
The popular 420th steel is considered a foreign analogue of this steel.

Steel 95X18- good domestic stainless steel, but, unfortunately, rather capricious in hardening and processing. Reputable manufacturers have high hardness, while being flexible and strong enough. A 95X18 knife is not as easy to sharpen as a regular kitchen knife, but the blade will keep its sharpness for quite some time. When overheated, the knife can be brittle, break easily and chip out portions of the blade. With prolonged contact with moisture, and even more so with salt, corrosion may occur slightly. With all this, it is one of the best steels of domestic knifemaking, which is used by both large manufacturers and respected private craftsmen. Steel 440V is considered to be an imported analogue.

Steel 50X14MF used by a number of major manufacturers. With high-quality heat treatment, hard and durable blades are obtained from it, which hold sharpening well. As with any other steel, under-hardened specimens are characterized by softness and rapid wear, and over-hardened specimens are brittle. Many people think that with proper hardness the blade will be fragile, so they urge you to be careful with long thin blades from 50X14MF. In general, a good all-purpose steel, although it can occasionally corrode with prolonged contact.
with moisture, the properties are close to domestic steel 65X13. This steel should not be confused with the "fiftieth" 50X12, which is an "intermediate option" between 40X12 and 65X13 and is used mainly for the manufacture of kitchen knives.

Let's move on to the steels used in foreign-made knives.

The cheapest and most popular steel of imported knives, from which the vast majority of them are made on the Russian market, is 420th steel. Almost all Chinese knives are made from it, which brought her notoriety. Indeed, in the "eastern" version, this is a low-quality material, according to its characteristics, it is closer to our "kitchen" 40X12. The only advantage of such a 420th is that it is an absolute "stainless steel", which is why Taiwanese "underwater" knives made of 420th steel are considered by diving enthusiasts
quite bearable. True, Japan stands out separately among the eastern neighbors, as in many other things - they make quite high-quality products from the 420th there.

In the "western" version, 420th steel is considered a normal inexpensive knife material. Spanish knives made of 420 steel are also very soft, almost like Chinese ones. But German (Magnum, Beker), Swiss (Victorinox, Wenger) and Austrian (Fortuna) knives from the 420th are more hard and accurate. The only thing to note is that all blades made of 420 steel, both Chinese and European, are very thick and heavy, which makes them less comfortable when cutting something.

Of particular note is the American quality of the knives made of 420 steel. Along with almost souvenir items from United Cuttlery, SOG and Buck make excellent knives from 420 steel with a blade hardness up to 57 HRs, and at the same time the blade is often quite thin and elastic. This once again confirms the position that high-quality hardening and processing is often more important than the grade (chemical composition) of steel.

Knives made of 420 steel are not always marked accordingly. If there is no inscription on a knife from an unknown manufacturer, or they simply write “Inox”, “Stainless”, “Stainless Steel”, “Rostfrei” (in fact, the word “stainless steel” on various languages), "Super-steel" and so on, then most likely it is the 420th steel with all the ensuing consequences.

Steels 425 and 425mod are modifications of 420 steel with minor changes in composition. For the user, this results in a somewhat more stable blade sharpening with slightly harder steel. However, 425 steel is a rarer knife material than 420 steel.

In general, well-known manufacturers rarely work with 420-series steels, since it requires an expensive and complex manufacturing process to obtain decent quality blades from these materials. The use of cheap steel in this case is not economically justified, and manufacturers most often use 420th steel in products for which corrosion resistance is very important.

Very common steels in the knife industry are steels of the 440th series. These are 440A, 440V and 440C. The softest and at the same time the most "stainless" steel 440A. 440C knife steel is the hardest, but it is also brittle and more prone to corrosion. From 440A, large clumsy knives are most often made, including submariners' knives, survival knives. With high-quality processing, very high-quality blades are obtained from 440A steel, for example, the American company SOG, but most often reputable firms avoid this soft material.

Steel 440B is rarely used in knife production. But from 440C they make a lot of knives both in Europe and in America. For quite a long time, this steel was considered the best for knives, until it was replaced by new expensive high-tech alloys. But it is still a very popular and worthy knife material. 440C is a fairly hard steel, knives made of it cut perfectly and do not dull for a long time, but at the same time, rust may appear with prolonged contact with moisture and / or salt. This is a very good material for blades when processed correctly. However, it should be noted that 440C steel made by Spanish manufacturers is often softer,
than even 440A from other Europeans.

"On the basis" of steels of the 440th series, several equally well-known steels used for the manufacture of knives were created.

Steel grades AUS6, AUS8 and AUS10 can be considered analogues of 440A, 440B and 440C, respectively. AUS6 is often used on relatively inexpensive Taiwanese knives, both from Taiwanese firms and well-known American and European brands. Many knives of the world's leading manufacturers (as well as clothing, footwear, electronics) are made in Taiwan, which does not mean their low quality. AUS10, like 440C, is one of the best knife materials, but it can also rust slightly. But in general, it should be noted that steels of the AUS series rust a little more than steels of the 440th series, due to the lower amount of chromium in the composition, but at the same time they are less brittle.

Among the steels close in properties to 440C, one can name the Japanese ATS34 and the American 154-CM. These are slightly more expensive steels, but in general, in terms of properties and hardness, they are close to 440C, although they are more prone to corrosion. Knives made of these steels are also difficult to sharpen on their own, but at the same time they hold sharpening for a long time, are poorly dulled and quite strong, which allows you to make thin, excellent cutting blades. Also among the similar steels are GIN1 and VG10, at the moment these are one of the best steels of traditional technology for knife production.

Most users will not notice the difference between 440C, 154-CM, ATS34, AUS10, GIN1 and VG10. These steels are close in composition and properties. But the main thing is that well-established companies work with these materials, making knives that are not the cheapest and can afford to use more expensive steel. A knife from any of the listed steels will be an excellent choice for the buyer. One should be careful only with 440C steel from Spanish or obscure manufacturers who can speculate on this well-known steel grade. Using a promoted steel grade, but not knowing how or not wanting to process it properly, such firms do not provide high quality their knives. If you avoid such products, then a knife made of good steel will delight its owner for many years, requiring a minimum of sharpening and maintenance.

In recent years, high-tech expensive steels have appeared in the knife industry, obtained not by traditional casting, but with the help of special technologies for instant microdroplet cooling and subsequent processing. According to the chemical composition, these steels could be called "alloyed cast iron", but from the point of view of the molecular structure, it is more like "metallic glass".

Steel CPM 440V(S60V) is one of the few new type steels used in serial production of knives by major manufacturers. An excellent material for a knife, a very hard blade retains its sharpness for a long time and does not rust, while such knives have special cutting qualities. The only drawback of this steel can be called some fragility, and therefore it is not used for heavy chopping knives. However, this is a rather expensive material, and mainly small knives are made from it, most often folding ones. These are knives rather for connoisseurs who can not only admire the quality of the cut, but also will not chop or pick something hard with a knife.

With the help of this article, you can choose a quality knife of a domestic or foreign manufacturer. Understanding the most popular steels, still remember how the article began - with the fact that this is not the main thing. Blade geometry, handle, mechanism play an equally important role. If you choose a knife for yourself, then choose according to your own hand, without prematurely paying attention to the design and appearance of the knife. Some even choose the knife with their eyes closed to find the most comfortable handle.

Think about what you are most likely to do with this knife - clean fish, sharpen pencils, cut food? Buy a knife based on your tasks, without listening to the advice of "experts" who show off their huge hunting cleavers. A knife is a concise practical tool, a faithful companion and friend, so you need to choose it wisely and for yourself.

Source: MIR SECURITY magazine #119

Tourist and Hunter knives

For a real hunter, a knife is not just a tool. Buying a hunting knife means choosing a true comrade and friend who will help you in difficult times and will not let you down in an emergency. Hunting knives are a natural extension of the hunter's hand, part of his body. That is why the best hunting knives are perfectly balanced, sharp, reliable and durable. There will be no time to repair, sharpen or straighten tools in the field, so hunting knives must always be in perfect condition.

Hunting knives, tourist knives are reliable and convenient tools on which a person's life often depends in extreme conditions, whether it is hunting or outdoor activities. Therefore, special requirements are always imposed on products such as knives for hunting and tourism. Without exaggeration, we can say that hunting knives - Finnish, German, Swiss - are the pinnacle of the art of creating knives. It has been this way since time immemorial, when the best hunting knives were worth their weight in gold. Often a hunter for a quality tool gave half of his annual production and did not regret it. Handmade hunting knives were so highly valued in the old days. The hunters lined up for the master of the knife, and dutifully waited for him to be able to get to work. At the same time, such hunting knives could only be bought at a fabulous price. Damascus steel hunting knives also cost a lot of money. However, in our time, any catalog of hunting knives offers quality products at an expensive price, but they are worth it.

hunting knives

Hunting knives can be useful for both fishing and hunting. You can also buy a hunting knife for outdoor activities or just as a gift, they are in demand in any situation, they are of unsurpassed quality and reasonable price. What are hunting knives, what functions can they perform, and how to make a choice so that a hunting knife is durable and comfortable?

Let's start with the fact that the main requirement for a hunting knife is not its attractive design or interesting handle, but the strong steel of the blade. Hunting knives are made of special steel alloys, hunting knives made of "Damascus" steel are most in demand - durable and reliable. If you came to the store to buy a hunting knife, then it is important to clearly understand what exactly you will use the hunting knife for. A hunting knife for butchering a carcass and a utility knife for hunting are two different models. For each case, you will need your own knife with a specific blade length, a specific blade curve.

So, if you need a hunting knife for finishing off game, then it should have a narrow blade that looks like a spear. If you plan to skin with a hunting knife, it should have a curved blade and, if possible, a special hook for ripping, such a procedure cannot be carried out with an ordinary knife. Butchering the carcass is carried out with a hunting knife with a strong and long blade, although such a knife is versatile and can be used for other purposes. Fundamentally different from other hunting knives for household work, their wide blade, similar to a hatchet, even allows you to plan a tree or chop off branches. It is extremely important when buying a hunting knife to hold it in the palm of your hand and feel the handle: it should lie comfortably and freely in your hand, providing you with maximum comfort.

Fishing knives

Fishing knives are designed primarily for cutting and gutting fish. And other operations required during fishing: cut a tangled rope, line, cut branches, etc. A distinctive feature of fishing knives is a relatively narrow blade.

The versatility of a fishing knife makes it also convenient as a tourist knife, and in everyday life.

fillet knives

Fillet knives are designed for filleting fish. Thanks to its excellent flexibility and increased sensitivity, the blade will feel the bones of even medium-sized fish and the fillet will turn out to be of high quality. When bending, the knife holds not only a straight line, but also an acute angle. For fruits and vegetables, a stainless blade is better, and for fish, a Damascus blade. Use the knife for its intended purpose and it will serve you for a very long time!

survival knives

Survival knives, which are items of both hunting equipment, are intended for use in conditions of commercial or sports hunting as hunting knives, and for use in difficult (extreme) hiking conditions, travel and sports tourism, including its special types ( mountaineering and water tourism). Survival knives are civilian melee weapons. The main purpose of survival knives as a weapon is to defeat and finish off an animal (including a sea animal or a large fish), protection during its attack or an attack by an armed person.

Survival knives and their accessories are also used for household purposes as a set of tools and devices in order to ensure the survival of a person in extreme camping conditions and in commercial or sports hunting (for example, when: preparing firewood; clearing a passage or site; setting up a tent or hut; carcass cutting and skinning; fishing; orienteering, etc.). A survival knife, really worth the money that is asked for it, must have a number of mandatory qualities and characteristics. So, a person, finding himself in a critical situation and having such a knife as the only tool at his disposal, should be able to perform all types of work that ensure his survival on enemy territory or far in the taiga.

One of the successful options for this class is the Austrian Feldmesser Glock 78,81

Survival knives. Short review.

A relatively new direction in the development of modern knives, which appeared only in the second half of the 20th century, was the creation of survival knives.

Of course, any knife should ideally serve for the safety of its owner and ensure his survival in extreme conditions. For example, bowie-style knives, common in North America, or large hunting knives and "bear" daggers, which were common in Russia, quite possessed such a function. There were also more active attempts to create a universal knife - a weapon-tool.

So, for example, hunting sets appeared, in which an auxiliary knife was located in the sheath of a large knife, and sometimes more than one. In some models, the auxiliary tool was in the handle. In this case, they tried to combine the best features of folding and awkward knives in one design.

Such knives were launched as hunting knives, but during the First World War, Puma released military knives made according to a similar scheme. Since it was not very convenient to use such knives, attempts were made to find another solution to this problem. So, for example, in one of the German designs, a folding knife was built into the handle of an ordinary bayonet, which, when used, was simply removed from it. The design of the bayonet itself became simpler, and it could be used alone or with a folding knife.

Another model was created by the famous designer of automatic weapons M.T. Kalashnikov. In his knife, the large blade is built into the design of the folding knife. If a large blade is not needed, then it could be removed.

The most successful combination of versatility and combat properties occurred in the knives of the series "Werewolf".

Civil modification of the knife "Werewolf-2"

In them, the blade and the tool part are located between two hinged handles. When throwing the handles on the tool or on the warhead of the blade, you can get a weapon or a universal tool. The design is simple and reliable.

As you can see, the design idea was quite actively working on the creation of a universal survival knife. Nevertheless, modern survival knives, which have proven themselves well in ordinary conditions, have proven to be of little use in specific environmental conditions.

So, for example, KA-BAR knives rusted heavily in a humid climate, the type-setting leather handle and leather sheath quickly went out of order. To create reliable knives, new technologies and materials were required. This is how survival knives appeared, the design of which was based on classic models, but was carried out as utilitarian as possible.

Such a knife was made of high-alloy stainless steel, had a developed guard, often carrying a tool load, a hollow cylindrical handle with a sealed container for placing NAZ. Typically, the handle is made of light alloy to facilitate. The blade on the butt has a shock tooth or saw.

Such a knife is durable, versatile, can be used as a combat knife and as a hunting knife. This design sacrifices functionality and reliability for ease of use. Gradually, survival knives came into fashion and became a special class of modern knives with their own design features.

A survival knife is often a whole set. So, in addition to the knife, the kit includes a fairly complex sheath and an auxiliary flat knife-skinner. The scabbard can be equipped with wire cutters, saws, slingshots, launchers for signal rockets, auxiliary NAZ elements, such as a signal mirror and a sharpening bar. The need to use the sheath as a survival element, and not just to accommodate the knife itself, led to the fact that the scabbard began to be equipped with quick-release belt loops that allow you to remove the knife from the belt without removing the belt.

The knife itself can be used as a saw, and its strength is often enough to be used as a fulcrum. There are models in which special pins are screwed into the guard, turning it into a “cat”, and in the handle there is an “earring” for attaching a climbing carabiner or rope. Such a knife can be used for insurance and to overcome various obstacles.

The placement of NAZ in the handle can also be designed in different ways. In the simplest version, the handle is oval in cross-section and usually with sub-finger protrusions. Thus, new models of the knife for the survival of the company were made. The HP-2 and Katran knives are also made, although they do not belong to survival knives, but have a handle design with a hollow internal sealed volume.

At the same time, the handle itself is non-metallic, and the power part is a metal case with a sealed plug. There is an option when the handle is a separate part, while it can even be made of plastic. The base of the shank has a longitudinal cut and ends with a thread. A cylindrical container with NAZ is placed in a longitudinal cutout and a handle is pushed in, which is pressed by a metal pommel screwed onto the threaded part of the shank.

The advantage of this design is the possibility of manufacturing handles from non-metal and an increase in overall strength due to the shank that runs the entire length of the handle. The downside is more complexity. Another option that allows you to make the handle more comfortable is the location of the NAZ in the internal volume of the flat handle, which is covered with overlays on both sides. As a rule, one overlay is fixed rigidly, and the second - on screws. In this case, you can get to the NAZ only with a screwdriver or a special item that replaces it.

There are other options for a detachable handle. However, there have been recent trends towards simplifying the design of survival knives and reducing their size and functionality. The handle in such knives is usually made on the screws, and the NAZ is absent or placed in a pocket on the sheath. As an extreme point of such development, the appearance of survival knives of the “skeletal” type can be considered.

In their pure "skeletal" form, they are little used. Basically, for ease of use, the handle of the knife is wrapped with a cord. Such a knife can also be used for other specific work performed, for example, under water. This is facilitated by the presence of a sereytor sharpening, which occupies part of the blade, and in addition to its main cutting function, the knife can replace the saw to a limited extent.

Some models of such knives are even made not from steel, but from titanium alloys. The reason for this specific approach is the reduction in the weight of the knife and the increased resistance of titanium to the aggressive effects of the external environment; minus - lower hardness and resistance of the cutting edge.

There are also original designs. For example, Cold Steel produces two models of a simplified BUSHMAN knife made of thin 3 mm steel. The handle of the knife is also rolled from this metal and can be used to place a NAZ or attach an additional shaft.

There are skeletal type models that are actually made as enlarged skinners that are included with a survival knife. The advantage of this approach is increased functionality, but the disadvantages that affect usability are much greater.

If we recall the first models of survival knives developed by the famous knife master Rendal, then they were of medium size and little resembled the overall cleavers that survival knives later became. Therefore, now the design of survival knives is simply returning to its original idea in many ways. Unfortunately, the fashion theme promoted by Hollywood and the interest of the public played a cruel joke with survival knives. Many fake models of well-known companies, made from lower quality materials, have appeared on the market.

In addition, models began to appear in which individual elements of various knives were used, without taking into account the possibility of their real performance. Such products from a serious special-purpose knife turned a survival knife into consumer goods of not the best quality. In addition, the quality of the knife was negatively affected by the desire of manufacturers to drive as many useful functions into the design as possible.

The result was heavy, uncomfortable knives, not very suitable for any field of activity. Universalization always harms specialization, and here it is important to stop in time, without crossing the line beyond which a multifunctional product becomes inoperable.

Over the course of their development, survival knives have been used in a variety of ways. So, in addition to combat purposes, they are used in extreme situations, are included in the set of various NAZ, for example, used in aviation. At the same time, classic designs can also be used as a base for creating a knife.

For example, Fallkniven's F-1 knife, used as a survival knife by the Swedish Air Force, may well be used as a small hunting knife. The absence of a set of NAZ in the handle or on the sheath in aviation knives can be explained by the fact that such a knife is usually part of a whole set of equipment placed on a special vest or in a special satchel.

The design feature is a small but powerful blade. Blade length 100 mm with a thickness of 4 mm. The handle is made of rubber plastic with a small one-sided protrusion that acts as a guard. The scabbard can be made of different materials: leather with a valve closing the handle, synthetic textiles or elastic impact-resistant plastic. The use of a traditional design as a survival knife, improved for the conditions of the north, but made at a new technological level, is common and quite justified. In many ways, this is a tribute to traditional approaches.

So, for example, the knife of an American pilot resembles a smaller version of a KA-BAR knife, on the butt of which a fine-toothed saw is located. Therefore, a modern survival knife is a very broad concept and is not tied to specific design solutions. Common to all these models is the ability to survive with such a knife in the most extreme conditions.

For example, a knife can be quickly turned into a more powerful weapon by putting it on a stick, making a heavy spear out of it, or by screwing an auxiliary skinner with a lanyard, using it as a light dart or spear. A knife with a shorter handle can be used as a cleaver or machete, increasing its cutting power due to the length of the handle. Knives with a hollow handle are mounted on the shafts and additionally fastened with a rope. Skeleton-type knives are simply tied to the shaft. A large survival knife, impaled on a strong shaft, may well serve as a hunting horn.

The stone jungle of large cities is sometimes more dangerous than the tropical jungle. Therefore, there are special models for survival in urban environments. Such a knife organically combines the capabilities of cold steel self-defense weapons and a universal tool. Usually folding knives are used for this, but there is also interest in clumsy models.

Their advantage is readiness for instant use and high structural reliability. For example, the Commandos knife has a small blade with a sereytor sharpening in front. It is carried in a sheath, and the sheath is designed for hidden carrying a knife and its instantaneous snatching. To do this, a clip is fixed on the handle of the knife, and on the sheath itself there is a special loop for fixing it.

When throwing the handle onto the blade, the tool part of the knife is exposed. Despite its small dimensions, the knife can perform many functions: a saw for wood, a saw-file for metal, a screwdriver, a can opener, a wrench, a ruler, wire cutters and mini-pliers. As you can see, a very impressive set for all occasions. The presence of a clip allows you to carry the knife with the handle down, at a certain angle. This not only increases stealth and the ability to quickly retrieve, but also does not interfere when traveling by car.

Another interesting modification of the urban survival knife is professional rescue knives.

Usually these are small knives with a high tool saturation of the blade. It can use interchangeable working elements, various types of saws and cutting edges.

As a rule, the blade of such a knife has a rounded front or ends with a special tool, a flathead screwdriver or a special wrench.

The creation of such special knives is a fairly new direction with a steady development trend.

The material is taken from the site www.taryar.narod.ru

My knives...

I don’t treat melee weapons with fanaticism, but I almost always use knives in my trips and rafting, fishing and earlier in hunting, which I like in appearance and excellent quality. Quite often I gave the knives I used to my friends, especially when I noticed that they liked them. On top of the photo, I have placed three of my samples, which I am going to use in the future.

№1

Austrian you already know Feldmesser Glock 78 is a survival knife.

Additionally, I secured about a dozen small-sized matches on the scabbard in waterproof micro bags, as well as 6 more pieces of special hunting matches for making fire in difficult conditions. In addition, under the tape there are several flies, 3 reliable hooks and a fishing line. I wrapped ALL this “wealth” with strong adhesive tape in two layers, which can also be used as a bandage or plaster for injuries. Under the tape there is still a very strong oiled nylon thread several meters long. A knife can be used as a harpoon if it is tied to a long and strong wooden six, in the same way a spear or pike can be made to repel an attack by a large predator. The knife can also be used, if necessary, as a chisel for making a raft.

№2

This is an everyday knife MORAKNIV often used for various purposes, the well-known Swedish company MORA.

Knife Companion black has a very sharp and strong blade, a handle made of special rubber, a fluorescent sheath with a belt clip, it has been verified many times that the knife is very securely fixed in the sheath. With this knife it is very convenient to perform any camp work: clean fish and vegetables, cut bread and sausage, cut off thick branches and prepare kindling for a fire and much more. Does not require constant editing of the blade on the bar. It has a lot of modifications specifically for adventurers... Cold-rolled stainless steel blade Sandvik. Fluorescent sheath with belt clip.

№3

I do not know the brand of this knife, it was given to me by my son for hunting mainly.

I assume this Damascus steel knife will be good for skinning any large trophies: deer, elk, bear, etc.

A knife blade is considered good if it has withstood the cutting of the first carcass of a large animal without straightening the blade.
Tests of products that were carried out in the hunting farm of the Izhmash concern showed the following results:

A) Damascus steel withstands cutting 2 wild boars and 1 elk or 130 kg of pike without straightening the blade.

B) When testing carbon damask and stainless damask steels, no restrictions were identified, because during testing, the available number of animal carcasses proved to be insufficient for these steels.

C) All research and testing of Damascus and damask steels were carried out strictly on a scientific basis in the laboratories of NIIMT (Research Institute of Metallurgical Technology) in Izhevsk and the laboratories of the Izhmash concern. All results and conclusions on the properties of steels are summarized and certified by protocols and photographs of tests by professional commissions.

№4

My smallest pocket knife «Opinel» №08

Light, comfortable, sharp, the lock is simple and very reliable, the “warm” handle, the blade, though made of stainless steel ... I often used folding knives, this one turned out to be the most convenient for me.

A hunter's complete arsenal is never complete without a specially designed trophy skinning knife. Experts in their field will never go hunting without a quality and reliable assistant. This means that a tool such as a knife must be chosen correctly and strictly in accordance with its intended purpose.
There are knives whose purpose is solely to remove skins, butcher carcasses or finish off prey. And there are multi-purpose copies. It is clear that a kitchen, combat or professional knife for hunting is not suitable.

Types of knives for skinning.
It should be noted that the primary difference is not in the general form, the material of the knife, but in the blade. This is exactly what should slide smoothly and not spoil the skin of the trophy.

The first and main type of knife, the purpose of which is skinning, is considered skinner. This shape of the knife blade provides a smooth, minimally traumatic skinning of the prey. The skinner is designed for this purpose only, so other than the separation of fat from the skin, it can harm the hunting tool. Such a knife is equipped with a relatively short blade of 10-13 cm. Despite the length, the skinner has a fairly wide blade. The upper edge of the knife is straight, does not decrease to the tip. In some cases, the blade may be missing a point. The handle of the knife is also small, for convenience it is made the size of a palm. However, some models are equipped with a full handle. This is a personal choice of the hunter and his individual convenience. The butt of the skinner is sometimes equipped with a skinning hook.

The second type of knife, often used when skinning, is considered drop point. Unlike a skinner, such a knife can be used both for skinning and for cutting carcasses or separating fat from the skin. This knife is characterized by a lower butt line. The point is on the axis, due to which, under pressure, the drop point cuts well, and also pricks well. In some models of knives, to help with easy entry into the material being cut, a “false blade” or a second full-fledged blade with one and a half sharpening is made.

The third universal type of skinning knife is a tool with a blade of the type clip point. On the butt of such a blade, a bevel is made, their blade is narrower, and the tip has an awl-like appearance. Sharpening on the bevel of the butt may or may not be present. The rounded rise of the blade allows the length of the cutting edge of the tool to be increased, making the skinning process easier. This knife will also be useful for carcass cutting and other everyday hunter manipulations.

What to look for when buying a skinning knife?
When choosing a skinning knife, pay attention to the following factors:
- the hunter's knife must be wear-resistant;
- it is good to keep sharpening;
- the tool implies quality and practicality;
- the material of the blade is of great importance. The ideal option is Damascus steel (it should be protected from moisture and dampness, wipe it dry after work);
- the handle should be straight, without bends and deep furrows. Preferably from wood - the warmest and most natural material.
When choosing a skinning knife, it should be remembered that this particular tool is a kind of continuation of the hunter's hand. Often, patterns and various engravings are carved on the handle, but such tools will not be ergonomic due to the numerous protrusions. These knives are best put in a collection. Inexperienced or novice hunters often directly compare the length of the blade with the practical skills of the owner. In fact, everything is absolutely not so, on the contrary, it is the skill of using a short blade that is an indicator of the level of a hunter.

A successful hunter, for whom a good outing is not only the process itself, but also the result, will certainly face such a task as butchering and skinning the carcass. The quality of meat, as well as the skin, as one of the trophies, depends on the manifestations of skills and knowledge at this stage. Previously, various improvised materials were used for these purposes, such as flint, but now there are special knives, the task of which is to help the hunter quickly and effortlessly gut the carcass, eventually obtaining excellent, fresh meat and neatly cut skin. This skin can later be used for various purposes, including being inherited as a family heirloom in memory of past successes.

Features of the skinning process and when a skinning knife is useful

After the animal is caught and deprived of life, it is necessary to start cutting the carcass and gutting it. This should be done as soon as possible so that the quality and taste of the meat do not deteriorate.

Each hunter is aware of one indisputable fact: before starting all the manipulations with the body of a dead animal, it must be bled. If you can still wait with other stages of cutting, then you should immediately release the blood if you want to end up with good meat, and not spoiled "rotten meat". For this, an ordinary hunting knife is useful, which should be stuck into the chest, whereby either the heart or the large arteries emanating from it are damaged. The process of its outflow may take a certain amount of time, but it is necessary to wait until the moment when the blood completely stops flowing out.

A bloodless carcass must not be left untreated. It should be remembered that under normal, field conditions, decomposition processes in the ungutted body of a killed animal begin after a couple of hours, and after 3-5 hours this meat will already be stale, and therefore it cannot be eaten.

Depending on the circumstances, the next step will be either skinning or gutting. You can delay cutting off a layer of solid fur in the following cases:

• if you need to transport the product for a long distance. In this case, the animal's hair will become a reliable coating that will maintain the optimum temperature. A reservation should be made that we are talking about a cooled, as well as a frozen carcass. If, however, meat with wool is transported, which has not cooled down properly, then the only thing that can be achieved is a rotten result with an intoxicating cadaverous aroma upon arrival;
• meat from which the skin has not been cut does not lose its weight due to the fact that it does not evaporate;
• such a product retains its original color, looks clean.

Consequently, the hair on a slaughtered animal can be left if it was killed specifically to obtain marketable meat. However, if hunting was carried out in the warm season, and even more so in the heat, then the only right decision would be to immediately remove the skin. After all, meat with wool cools very slowly, which means that it will spoil at a record speed.

The standard procedure provides for the beginning of the evisceration stage precisely from the removal of the skin (flaying), which occurs in several stages:

• first you should clean the skin from possible traces of blood, dirt, using a damp cloth;
• then a special skinning knife will come in handy, which will allow you to keep the surface of the wool intact, which sometimes has no less value than the meat itself, and make the whole process quick and easy. The carcass is placed either on its side or on its back, you can hang it. There are two main ways of skinning: with a layer (if it is hoofed game), with a pipe (if you are working with a hare or a rabbit). To do this, a longitudinal incision is made from head to tail. The skin is also cut in the places of the knee joints, from where it begins to be removed towards the central incision. First, the removed skin reaches the sacrum, after which the carcass is turned over and removed on the stomach towards the head;
• the process ends with a final touch in the form of skinning the head, or its separation as a trophy.

When skinning, knives are used specifically for cutting and separating the skin from the subcutaneous connective tissue. The rest of the time, it is advisable to do everything with your hands, using improvised tools such as a towel and a wooden spatula. In animals such as deer, it is not difficult to remove the skin, because it separates very easily from him. You will have to tinker with a wild boar and practically do not let go of the knife from your hands, because its skin is firmly connected to muscle tissue. In this case, one should use the tool with double caution, also because it is possible to damage the roots of the awns (deep wool) and then the resulting skin will turn out to be shabby.

The structure of the skinning knife

The main assistant in skinning even outwardly differs from his other brothers-hunters. It is also called a skinner, which, translated from English, only confirms its main purpose - skin removal.

This indispensable element of hunting equipment is a small tool for performing specialized agricultural needs. rank skinning knives to the category of edged weapons is fundamentally not true, because they differ from them:

• a general design that does not allow direct stabbing wounds;
• such knives must have a strong blade fixation if they are equipped with some kind of transforming mechanisms;
• the dagger blade in such knives is prohibited by law;
• with a blade length of more than 9 cm, skinning knives are prohibited, the design of which allows lightning-fast extraction of the blade.

On average, skinning knives are equipped with a wide and sharp blade, sharpened one-sidedly. These are small tools, because their area of ​​​​application implies the need to wield a brush, an elbow bend during work, which will be impossible if the dimensions of the knife are too large.

The blade, as a rule, is small, 4-12 cm in size, structurally less than the length of the handle. It is distinguished by a convex cutting edge, the butt of the knife has a significant thickness, because while working with the tool, the blade should not spring and slide off. Most often, these knives have a fixed blade, but there are also folding models.

Types of skinning knives

There is a significant variety of this, at first glance, picky knife in terms of the constitutional set.

First of all, the difference is in size. Indeed, for a furry animal, a small knife with a miniature blade is suitable, which will provide clean and neatly cut skin. For large deer, a slightly larger sample will do, in order to remove the skin evenly, rather than in short bursts.

Often the blade of the “skinderers” has a slightly lowered blade so that when removing the skin, the knife does not break through it, and the applied force falls on the subcutaneous region. This is a variant of a softened blade, less aggressive given its sharpness. But there are also curved blades with a raised edge of the blade above the butt. In this case, the same softened effect is achieved, but with a different design.

Equally important in the work of the knife is the convenience of wielding it. The presence of a guard to protect the hand, notches, notches for the fingers will ensure the correct grip of the tool and, as a result, it will be easy for them to work, which means the result will be cleaner.

In addition to the standard models, which are a laconic ratio of the blade and the handle, there are variations with the addition of additional details that will be most useful when skinning the carcass (insert for cutting skins), and will also contain household tools (corkscrew, awl) , special purpose (instrument for cutting tendons). Sometimes additional modifications only interfere in the process, where accuracy and prudence of movements are so necessary.

Skinning knives, which are equipped with a special hook, can boast of real practical benefits. This hook is located on top of the blade point and is directed towards the handle. In practice, it is used to quickly cut the skin with one precise movement, as well as open the peritoneal region.

Materials for the manufacture of a skinner

Just by looking at skinning knives photo you can see one obvious pattern: almost all of them prefer wood as a material for making the handle. It can be Karelian birch, walnut, wenge, birch bark and many others. Wood is preferred for several important reasons:

• a handle made of wood is called “warm”, that is, it does not cause rejection, in work it is felt as an extension of the human hand;
• such a knife due to the lightweight handle as a whole acquires lightness, which means it does not burden the hand in work, does not create additional stress. In addition, it is a durable material, therefore, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the handle;
• the main plus is the anti-slip properties of the wooden handle. In conditions of work with such a viscous liquid as blood, when butchering animals, such a characteristic is decisive. After all, it provides a good grip with the hand, on which both personal safety and the quality of the work performed directly depend;
• such a handle will not freeze to the hand, which is also important, especially in winter types of hunting.

In this perspective, it is not recommended to use newfangled samples of handles made of plexiglass. Such a knife will slip out of the hand due to the slipperiness of the material upon contact with liquid, in the palm of your hand it will feel like something sharp alien. The same can be said about the metal as the basis for the handle. Its main drawback is precisely the low ergonomics. In the cold, such a knife can completely damage the palm, you will have to wield this cold material with gloves, which, from the point of view of skinning technology, is completely unrealistic.

According to GOST, the material for blades of skinning knives can be used:

• metals and their alloys (starting from low-carbon and ending with damask, Damascus steel);
• other materials (zircon-zirconium dioxide);
• compositions of materials of different composition (steel with a layer of titanium nitride).

Obviously, one of the main useful characteristics when working with such a blade will be its anti-corrosion properties. After all, the scope of skinning blades involves working in a humid, viscous environment, and, therefore, it will be difficult to care for blades that are prone to corrosion. Therefore, of all types of steel, it is best to choose alloyed steel, in which elements such as nickel and chromium are present.

The next necessary property is the hardness and strength of the blade. The skinning knife must provide an accurate cut, be reliable and durable in operation. In this regard, often the hardness of the steel used is adjusted to a minimum of 55 HRC, ideally the higher the better. Then the likelihood of damage to the blade during heavy or inaccurate work will be minimal.

Sometimes such blades use various technologies of mechanical and thermal processing (grinding, painting, bluing), which are designed to ensure longer blade life and proper surface care.

How to make a skinning knife with your own hands

A similar model of a hunting knife can be bought at a specialized store, or you can design it yourself.

To do this, it is not at all necessary to have an equipped workshop at home with a whole set of appropriate tools. The task is simplified by the fact that you can always purchase a blank for a knife. This is possible, given the design of hunting knives, which prefer the mounted mounting of the handle, which involves fitting the handle onto the shank and its subsequent fastening.

It is desirable to purchase the workpiece from stainless steel. You can stop at “raw” hardening and then independently bring the product to strength, form descents, or you can buy a finished sample with basic characteristics from the descents, sharpening and even polishing the blade. In the latter case, it remains only to make a handle, put it on the shank and go to skin the carcass.

If there is no place to buy a blank, then you can start the manufacturing process from scratch. Possessing the necessary knowledge and skills, one should proceed to the formation of the blade for the future knife using the same riding method, as the most suitable for skinning knives in view of the possibility of repair, the ease of the resulting design.

To make do-it-yourself skinning knives"from scratch" you first need to make a sketch of the future product. If there is not enough imagination for this, then you can use ready-made models, on which the necessary ratio of the blade to the handle is drawn, the shape of the blade, the necessary slopes and the method of fastening are prescribed.

In order to form a future knife, you need to make:

• the blade itself;
• bolster (which is an overlay in the front of the handle, which serves to protect the butt from the redistribution of loads);
• handle.

First you need to start making the blade. To do this, you can use any available source material that boasts good properties and quality. It can be a file, and a saw, and springs, and even a cable. Indeed, sometimes in order to make a knife with your own hands, there is not much to choose from, since it is unrealistic to deal with melting metal at home.

The first stage is to give the selected material the necessary shape, in this case, the blade - the skinner. For this, annealing technology is used. When the product is heated to low temperatures (250 °), which is realistic in a conventional oven, followed by slow cooling. Thus, the part will lose its hardness and it will be possible to give it any shape using an electric or mechanical bench tool (grinder) and a drawing of the desired shape.

But with the hardening of the source material, the situation is even simpler. You just need to know what the original sample is made of, because the hardening methods for alloyed and carbon steels differ in temperature and time exposure. Hardening followed by tempering is a necessary step to give the blade the necessary hardness and strength. At home, for this stage, you can use both a muffle furnace, which is easier to maintain and bring to the required temperature (700 °), and a home-made forge from a tin can.

The main thing is to maintain the right balance, because when the part overheats, it will be hopelessly damaged (it will become irreversibly brittle), but if the future blade is not heated, the product will be very soft, but in this case the situation can be corrected by repeated, correct hardening.

There are methods for checking the readiness of the product. First of all, this is an indicator of color. If the part has acquired a cherry red and scarlet color, then this indicates that the hardening temperature has reached 730 - 800 ° C - the most optimal temperature. This means that the product must be removed for a tempering procedure, which should give an overly hard blade the strength it needs.

Tempering is carried out by reheating the sample to a certain (not critical) temperature, followed by slow cooling. To do this, the part can be dipped in quenching oil, water with the addition of salt, or left to cool in the open air (natural tempering).

After the product has acquired the necessary technical characteristics and shape, you can begin to form the knife by attaching the handle to the shank and finishing the blade.

The blade must be cleaned, polished, sharpened. Particular attention should be paid to the sharpness of the cutting edge, because the skinning knife should cut well and evenly. To do this, you should have in your arsenal several types of whetstones (coarse and fine-grained). In this process, it is important to observe the sharpening angles. For a skinner, the ideal indicator would be the formation of a blade of 25-30 °, which is intended just for hunting knife models due to the fact that such a blade does not dull for a long time. If it will be difficult to keep the desired degrees by eye, then you can stock up on special clips for corners that will not allow you to mow the desired indicator.

A knife is a mandatory attribute of a hunter. There are universal hunting knives, with the help of which they perform such operations as finishing off game, skinning, butchering carcasses, and chores.

However, multifunctional tools are always inferior to specialized ones. For example, for quick and high-quality skinning of an animal, it is recommended to use a skinning knife specially designed for such purposes.

Types of skinning knives

There are several types of knives used for skinning - skinners, drop-point and clip-point blades.

Translated from English Skin - skin, skin. Accordingly, one of the varieties of knives is called Skinner (skinner). This is a highly specialized tool used for skinning and ripping open the belly of an animal. The design of the skinner is such that it is not suitable for cutting game. The blade of such a knife cannot be used to finish off animals on the hunt.

The standard blade length is from 10 to 13 cm. The blade is made rounded, sometimes without a cutting part. The blade is wide, reminiscent of sharpening. The upper part of the blade is straight, not directed towards the tip. This shape allows you to cut the skin smoothly, avoiding uneven lines.

The skinner handle is small in size. It should fit comfortably in your hand. On some models there is a butt with a hook.

drop point

The drop-point blade is wide and thick. Blade with a straight butt, and the tip is located on the middle part of the blade. Thanks to this, the drop point can also be used for finishing game, cutting skins, separating fat. Some models are equipped with an additional blade with one and a half sharpening, this makes it easier to cut the skin.

clip point

Professional Clip-point knives have a narrower and more centrally accentuated blade compared to Drop-point. High piercing ability makes it easy to make punctures in the skin with such a knife, no matter how thick it is.

The notch on the blade is directed towards the point. Bevel on the butt. Sharpening on the bevel may or may not be - depends on the model. Thanks to the rounded rise of the blade, the area of ​​the cutting edge is increased, which makes skinning convenient and fast.

Criterias of choice

Skinning knives must meet the following requirements:

1. Ease of cutting the skin.
2. Sufficient hardness of the blade. The optimum metal hardness is 55 HRC or more.
3. Blade wear resistance.
4. Ability to resist corrosion. The process of skinning prey involves a moist, viscous environment.
5. No need for frequent sharpening.
6. Ergonomic handle. The ideal handle of a skinner should be straight, without bends or furrows. best material for the handle - wood. They use such types of wood as Karelian birch, walnut, wenge and some others. In the manufacture of handles for good knives, plexiglass is not used, since this is a slippery and uncomfortable material.
7. There should be no engravings or patterns on the handle or blade. Decorations are suitable for collectible knives, and when doing work they only interfere.

GOST requirements allow the use of the following metals for the production of skinning blades:

• steel and its alloys (low-carbon, alloyed or Damascus steel, bulat);
• composite compositions (for example, steel with the addition of titanium nitride);
• other materials (including zirconium).

Some types of steel are subjected to additional processing, including grinding, heat treatment or bluing. This gives the material additional performance characteristics.

From the point of view of working features, Damascus steel is best suited for the manufacture of a skinner. However, this metal is unstable to moisture, it must be carefully wiped dry after use.

Do-it-yourself skinner

Shops have a large selection of knives for skinning prey. However, if desired, the skinner can be made with your own hands.

The easiest way is to purchase a blank for a knife for skins. The recommended blade material is stainless steel. Some craftsmen acquire material with a “raw” hardening, and then they bring the steel to the desired conditions themselves, forming a descent. Others buy a workpiece with descents, sharpening and even a polished finish. In this case, it remains only to make a handle, put it on the tail section and proceed to skinning.

In the absence of a blank, the skinner will have to be made independently. First, create a drawing of the future knife. Real-life models are usually used as a sample. Sometimes they decide to develop their own design. Then they adhere to the correct ratio of the length of the handle to the blade, corresponding to the tasks of the shape of the blade, provide for descents and fasteners.

It is necessary to independently make such parts of a knife for cutting skins:

• blade;
• bolster (protective pad on the handle);
• handle.

Manufacturing process

They start by making a blade for the skinner. You will need the original metal with the characteristics corresponding to the task. A file, saw blade, or even a metal cable will do.

First of all, the material is given the correct shape using annealing technology. The process is heating the metal to a high temperature. This can be achieved using, for example, an oven. The task of heating is to reduce the hardness of the metal in order to give it the desired shape with the help of a tool. The type of material affects the methods of hardening. Different types of steel require a different approach: hardening times and temperature conditions are different.

At home, a muffle furnace is best suited for quenching and tempering. This device is heated to a temperature of about 700 degrees. It is also possible to use a homemade forge, for example, from a tin can. It is important to maintain a reasonable balance. Due to overheating, the part will become excessively brittle, and if the temperature is insufficient, it will become too soft. Although in the latter case, the situation can be corrected by a new hardening.

To check the readiness of the blade, there are a number of markers. Look at the color of the heated product. If the surface turned cherry or scarlet, the temperature reached 730-800 degrees. The part should be taken out and the tempering process started.

As a result of tempering, the metal will acquire the desired strength. The procedure is performed by reheating to the desired (not critical) temperature with further slow cooling. For this purpose, the metal is dipped in quenching oil, salted water, or left to cool in the open air. In the latter case, the technology is called "natural vacation".

As soon as the required technological characteristics of the metal and the shape of the product are achieved, it is fixed to the handle shank. Then start finishing the blade. The blade is cleaned, polished and sharpened. The main attention is paid to the sharpness of the cutting part. For sharpening use whetstones (with small and large grains). In the process of sharpening, sharpening angles are observed: for a skinner, the optimal angle is 25–30 degrees. It is recommended to use special corner clamps, they will allow you to maintain the desired angle, and not work by eye.

The formed blade is ground with a bar with a fine-grained surface. The sharpness of the blade is checked as follows: if the falling sheet of newspaper is cut, the knife is sharpened well. It is suitable for working with skins.

Peculiarities of skinning different animals

There are specific features of skinning work depending on the type of animal. For a bear, the option of skinning a “layer” is better suited. However, if the task is to create a stuffed animal standing on its hind legs, it is better to use the “from the back” method.

In relation to medium-sized predators (wolf, lynx), the “layer”, “from the back” and “stocking” methods are used. If you need to create a carpet from the skin, use only the "layer" method.

From small predators and rodents, the skin is removed with a “stocking”. But for working with the skin of a porcupine, the only method suitable is the “layer”.

For ungulates, four options are used:

1. Removing the skin to make a trophy head.
2. We will remove the skin "from the back" to create a whole stuffed animal.
3. The "layer" method in the manufacture of a model of a wild boar.
4. Combined skinning. Used when talking about large ungulates.

Methods for skinning game

You will need a well-sharpened skinner and a prepared workplace. It is necessary to start skinning as soon as possible after shooting the animal. After a few hours, the irreversible process of damage to the skin begins. Degradation occurs especially quickly in the areas of the armpits and in the groin. Fermentation processes in the gastrointestinal tract lead to bloating. As a result, the skin in this area becomes greenish and unsuitable for further use.

Do not leave the skin in the sun. Do not cover the animal with plastic wrap unless it is for transportation to a taxidermist. Polyethylene is not breathable. Deprived of oxygen, the skin quickly begins to rot.

The carcass must be stored in a dry, clean and cool place. It is advisable to ventilate it well.

It is recommended to place the carcass on dry ground, grass, hay or boards. However, pine planks should be avoided, as the resin will ruin the hide. Cotton or other natural fabrics are also used as lining.

So that the skin does not deteriorate in the most sensitive areas - armpits and groin - it is recommended to fix the prey's paws at some distance from the carcass. For this, ropes are used.

The head and limbs should not be pressed against the body. Otherwise, rigor mortis will greatly complicate the manipulation of the animal carcass.

Removing the skin "layer"

The “layer” or “carpet” method is applied to the skins of bears, beavers, moles, badgers, ground squirrels, water rats, and pinnipeds. In the same way, skins are removed from ungulates.

The main incision is made from the middle of the lower lip to the tail. The incision line runs along the middle part of the ventral side of the carcass. Moles, water rats and beavers are skinned in one cut, cutting off their paws and tails. In the case of marine animals, the paws and tails are left.

Incisions are possible on the back sides of the front paws through the middle part of the chest - from the sole or brush of one of the paws to a similar area of ​​the other paw. An incision is also made between the feet and the hocks of the hind legs. The incision is made on the back side of the joints through the rump.

Having made the main cuts, they begin to gradually separate the skin from the carcass. First, they remove it from the paws, moving towards the spine. The skin is completely removed from the head. It is removed from the paws along with the claws only from a bear. In badgers and marmots, the skin from the paws is completely removed, but the claws are left. Beavers and ground squirrels are skinned at the level of the hands and heels.

The tail divided by a longitudinal section is left in all animals, except for the beaver. His skin is trimmed along the fur line.

Removal of the skin "layer" is carried out with a sharp knife. As a result of careless actions, it is easy to pierce the belly of the animal, staining the skin with intestinal contents. The use of small blades with a concave blade and sharpening that does not reach the tip by about a centimeter helps to avoid this situation. The end of their blade is thickened, and the edges are rounded.

A knife with a sharp end is used to create a short cut in the skin in the region of the lower jaw. A knife blade with a blunt end is inserted into the resulting incision and continue to cut further - up to the tail. The blunt end of the knife goes between the skin and the carcass without spoiling them, and the blade directed towards the skin makes a cut.

Removing the skin "from the back"

This option is more difficult than the previous one. However, this practically does not affect the quality of the manufactured model.

Work order:

1. We make the main incision on the dorsal part - from the base of the tail. The cut is indented from the center of the back in any direction. We try to cut as evenly as possible, moving along the line of the spine to the head. We complete the incision near the occipital region of the animal.
2. Next, we return to the beginning of the cut and cut the skin on the side of the tail in the direction of the abdomen. We finish the incision 6–7 cm from the anus.
3. We make incisions along the hind legs, as when removing the skin with a “layer”. We go around the paw pads on the back side - a centimeter from them.
4. On the front paws, we cut the skin just above the elbow joints - along the inner part of the shoulder. Then we move along the inside of the forearm.
5. We take off the skin. We are especially careful in the areas of the armpits and groin. Here it is easy to damage the skin due to the abundance of fat and skin folds.
6. We remove the skin from the shoulder girdle using the “stocking” method.

If the carcass has begun the process of rigor mortis or the animal is too large, stocking skinning often becomes unfeasible. In this case, we increase the incisions along the front legs: we go from the elbow joints along the lower part of the shoulder blade to the incision along the center of the back. Thus, we implement the “layer” method, but from the back.

Removing the skin "stocking"

We make the main incision from foot to foot, from the outer edge between the balls of the fingers. Bending around the pad of the paw on the inside, we go to the center of the heel, to the popliteal cavity. Next, we move to the second paw between the tail and the anus and repeat the steps described above in reverse order.

On the forelimbs we cut, as when removing the skin "from the back", - from the elbow joints to the hands.

The next step is to remove the skin from the feet and toes of the animal's hind legs. After that, we hang the carcass by the hind limbs. To do this, we thread the rope through the hole between the ankle and the Achilles tendon.

After the release of the hind limbs and tail, the skin from the carcass is removed without problems. It is pulled together by grabbing the edges and pulling down. However, if there are difficulties, it is not necessary to be too zealous so as not to damage the skin. In this case, they remove a little - in a circle, while helping with a knife.

trophy heads

Some hunters take on the manufacture of not only full-fledged stuffed animals, but also trophy heads to decorate interiors. A trophy head refers to the head and the area from the tip of the nose to the shoulder girdle.

The cutting scheme behind the forelimbs is applied to all types of hunted animals, regardless of size. In the case of large ungulates, a cut is used along the back of the skin with further bifurcation towards the horns.

Small ungulates such as roe deer are skinned using the “stocking” method. The head is separated from the carcass along with the skin. In this case, only a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe skin is cut off in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe shoulder blades. In this form, you can also leave the heads of wild boars and elks.

Note! In order for the operation to make a trophy head to be successful, the temperature regime (cool air) and the efficiency of transferring the working material to the taxidermist's hands are important.

Birds

As in the case of small animals, bird carcasses are recommended to be given to the taxidermist as a whole. An important factor in bird conservation is maintaining the integrity of the feather cover. You can’t just throw the carcass into the trunk, putting things on top. In this case, the feathers will bend or break.

After prey, the birds inspect the carcass for serious damage. If there are none, a piece of cotton wool is placed in the beak. Next, the beak, head and neck are wrapped with toilet paper. Already wrapped neck and head are tucked under the wing. Under the second wing put several sheets of paper. Wings and tail are pressed to the body. The bird is wrapped in paper, being extremely careful not to wrinkle the plumage.

The packed carcass is lowered tail up into a large plastic bag. A few branches of fir are also placed there. Due to the presence of antibacterial phytoncides in fir, rotting slows down.

Note! If there are bleeding wounds on the carcass, they are covered with a piece of cotton wool or toilet paper.

Keep the bird in a cool place. At 15 degrees above zero, the black grouse carcass remains suitable for further processing by a taxidermist for up to a day. Game with a damaged belly is preserved much less - a few hours.

Fish

Whole stuffed animals and trophy heads are made from fish. To create a stuffed animal, it is recommended to give the whole fish to the taxidermist. The body, including the fins, must not be damaged. To deliver the fish intact, the fins are pressed against the body. Along one of them - tail - put a piece of cardboard or fiberboard. Next, the fish is wrapped with one or two layers of cling film. It can be replaced with a plastic bag, and the previously described lining with a flat stick.

To create a trophy head, cut off so as not to damage the fins. You need a skin reserve behind your head. If there is no taxidermist nearby and there is nowhere to freeze the fish, the insides are removed at the cut site. The esophagus and gills are left in place. The head will be stored for 4-5 days, if the space freed from the insides is abundantly salted. Salt is placed not only in the place of the incision, but also in the mouth, and also under the gills.

Making a skinner is a difficult task to perform. It requires an understanding of the features of steel and skill in working with the tool. However, with knowledge and exactly following the instructions, anyone can make a skinning knife.