Many amateur photographers buy Nikon or Canon SLR cameras without quite understanding how to use it. In any SLR camera, whether it is an amateur model or a professional one, there are various shooting modes, and I propose to consider them.
Everyone probably saw in their Nikon cameras such basic modes like M, A and S. Now we will briefly consider the purpose of these modes, as well as find out when it is better to use them.
Before describing the modes, it is necessary to familiarize yourself a little with the mat. part 
the world, the longer the curtains should be opened, and vice versa, in daylight or sunlight, the curtains should open for a minimum period of time. In cameras, it is indicated as a fractional number: 1/60, 1/400, etc. Let me explain what would be the connection with reality. 1/60 is 60th of a second and 1/8000 is 8000th of a second (very short exposure) etc. More divider, shorter shutter speed and vice versa, less divider longer shutter speed. This value of 1 ″ means that the shutter speed is 1 sec.
S mode in SLR cameras
This S mode allows the photographer to manually set the camera's shutter speed. The aperture value and ISO can be automatically set by the camera. If desired, you can turn off auto ISO and control this value manually.
This is the mode I use the least. It makes sense to use for artistic photographs at slow shutter speeds. Here are some examples.
In addition to creating such artistic shots, S mode can be used in situations where you want to take a picture at very fast apertures to “freeze” the subject. These pictures are in my collection.
Taking photographs, you need to be especially careful about the safety of information on your computer. For this, programs have been created that can provide data backup. Their use can ensure the stability of your computer and minimize the chance of data loss on your computer.
M mode in SLR cameras
A mode in which the photographer himself can either adjust all the values: aperture, shutter speed and ISO, or can let the camera adjust the ISO using auto ISO. A rather complicated and inconvenient mode for everyday shots, as well as in cases where you need to shoot quickly. I use this mode when shooting with flash.
When shooting with flash in auto mode, the camera offers a shutter speed of 1/60, and this shutter speed cannot provide photos without shake, so in M mode I do whatever shutter speed I want, 1/200 for example. Also in such situations it is often necessary to cover the aperture and adjust the ISO, so this mode is very useful in this case. M mode is also necessary when shooting in the studio, where you also need to adjust the shutter speed and aperture yourself.
Mode A in SLR cameras
A mode in which the photographer manually sets the aperture value and can choose whether or not to use auto ISO. In A mode, the camera will automatically select the desired shutter speed and ISO value (if set to auto ISO). Using inexpensive equipment, most photographs are taken at a fully open aperture, in whale lenses this value is f3.5 or f4.0, in fast or more expensive lenses, aperture can be f2.8, f2.0 and even f1.4. The value f1 means that ambient light enters the matrix without restriction.
For me, this is the most convenient mode for daily shooting. Allows you to quickly adjust the depth of field by changing the aperture value. By increasing the ISO, it is also easy to control the shutter speed at those values that provide sharp pictures.
Portraits are usually shot at an open aperture of f3.5 or f4.0 (values for inexpensive whale lenses), but if you need to photograph the landscape, or you just need the entire frame to be as sharp as possible, then you need to close the aperture at least f8.0.
Inexpensive accessories for SLR cameras can be bought on Aliexpress.
P.S.
Don't use uncomfortable manual modes all the time, just to talk about what you're shooting on manual settings. Your task is to make the maximum number of beautiful frames by taking pictures at the right moments, and if you set up something in the camera at this time and not shoot, then alas, it will be very sad.
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Publication date: 15.04.2015
Shooting modes and exposure options
In addition, automation knows nothing about your creative intentions. Should I blur the background? What to make sharp? Accordingly, the auto mode cannot select suitable exposure and focus settings. In order for the photographer to accurately and correctly adjust the settings, there are more advanced shooting modes. Sometimes these modes are called "creative", sometimes semi-automatic. The four classic modes found in any serious camera are labeled P, A, S, and M. All of them allow you to adjust the white balance, adjust the autofocus, etc. Their difference lies in the fact that they adjust the exposure parameters in different ways.
P, A, S, and M modes on the mode dial
"P" ("program mode")
Automation in this mode sets the parameters included in the exposure pair - shutter speed and aperture. The photographer can also adjust the sensitivity and enter exposure compensation. We can also change the exposure pairs (combination of shutter speed and aperture) selected by the camera. This is called program shift. If you set the shutter speed too fast in P mode, and you want to change these values (shoot with an open aperture and a faster shutter speed), you can use the "program shift". Just turn the control wheel on the camera and you will be offered other combinations of shutter speed and aperture. The "P" mode is quite easy to learn and is often used by beginner photographers.
In manuals and articles, it is often written that advanced photographers use this mode when there is no time and desire to fine-tune the exposure settings more carefully.
However, in an unforeseen situation, you will probably forget to put the camera in “P” mode. Conclusion: you need to prepare for any emergency in advance by selecting the desired shooting mode and more or less universal parameters. Perhaps this universal mode will be the “P” mode for you..
"S" ("shutter priority")
In this mode, the photographer is given control over ISO and shutter speed, as well as exposure compensation. In some cameras, this mode is indicated by the letters "Tv". The photographer independently determines the shutter speed that suits him, and the camera chooses the desired aperture value so that the frame is not too bright and not too dark.
When to use "S" mode? In those shootings where it is important to control the shutter speed. We know that shutter speed is responsible for conveying movement in a photograph. Thus, when shooting moving objects, active scenes, this mode will be relevant. When shooting a sporting event, we can set the shutter speed long enough to ensure that there is no blur in the frame. The automation will do the rest for you. Sometimes the "S" mode is useful when insufficient lighting, because in it we can set the maximum shutter speed (allowable for our shooting), avoid blurring frames, stir. But if your shots with such settings turn out to be too dark, you need to additionally raise the ISO, or even better, choose a more lit place for filming.
"A" ("aperture priority")
A mode that allows the photographer to control aperture. Automatic adjusts the remaining exposure parameters to the selected aperture settings. If the “S” mode is most often used for reportage shooting, then “A”, on the contrary, is more often used for unhurried staged shooting. The aperture is especially important to control when we are not working with the transmission of motion in the frame, but adjust the depth of field, the degree of background blur. Usually this is shooting staged portraits and photographing landscapes.
When shooting portraits, the background behind the person is often blurred. To do this, you need to shoot wide open. In landscape photography, on the other hand, you usually need to sharpen the entire landscape: from the foreground to the background. To achieve this, you need to shoot on a closed aperture.
When photographing portraits in the "A" mode, you need to carefully monitor the shutter speed (its current value is displayed on the camera screen and in the viewfinder). If the shutter speed becomes too slow (longer than 1/60 sec), the frame is likely to be blurry. When shooting in “A” mode, we can influence the shutter speed indirectly: by opening and closing the aperture, adjusting the ISO. To force the automatic to make the shutter speed faster, just raise the ISO a little or open the aperture slightly.
We also note that in the “A” mode it is convenient to shoot travel photos, taking pictures during a walk or excursion. And when shooting landscapes thoughtfully, it is still more convenient to use the “M” mode.
"M" (manual mode)
It is clear from the name that this is the mode that allows you to fully control all shooting parameters. It is in this mode that we can see how the picture will change when adjusting each exposure parameter (for example, only shutter speed or only aperture). Automatic shooting in this mode does not help and does not compensate for errors in setting certain parameters. For beginners, the "M" mode is perfect for learning, and for advanced photographers - for thoughtful work. In what cases is it important to control all parameters at once? First of all, when shooting takes place in difficult lighting conditions: shooting sunset or dawn, working with backlighting. Also in the "M" mode, they shoot using studio flashes.
Shooting in regime time (early in the morning or late in the evening) is a great opportunity to use the manual mode to get a photo of the desired brightness.
By the way, modern Nikon SLR cameras have one interesting feature: in the “M” mode, you can leave the ISO parameter under the control of automation. Consequently, we have the opportunity to adjust the exposure pair (shutter speed and aperture) as we want. The camera will then adjust the ISO so that the frame is bright enough. In the "M" mode, exposure compensation will also work. Thus, we can easily make the frame lighter or darker, as well as photograph dynamic scenes, without constantly worrying about manually changing the settings.
Contrary to popular belief, experienced photographers shoot in more than just manual mode. They shoot in the mode that (in their experience) is suitable for a particular shooting situation: portraitists often work in the "A" mode, reporters can shoot in the "S" mode, etc. The "M" mode is suitable not only for the most thoughtful working with exposure settings, but also for teaching photography. With it, a novice photographer will be able to figure out how the exposure settings relate to each other, and learn how to control them quickly and accurately.
Fotoshkola.net. Teacher, master class leader.
Each camera has a bunch of modes, so you look at them and don’t understand anything, but you want to understand something ...? If - "YES", then I will try to introduce them to you as simply and interestingly as possible. Well, if “no”, then pick up the instructions (although it will not help you much).
I want to say in advance that the camera has 4 main modes and a favorite “Auto” mode (expensive professional DSLRs have only 4 main modes). Of course, you will tell me now, but what about my favorite night mode or portrait, or some other that you use so often. But no way, this is just a husk, which is done mainly for those who understand little about the camera, and often do it quite poorly, the highlight is the modes P, S, A, M.
The first and most popular mode, which is used by 70% of people, is the mode codenamed Auto, or auto whoever is more comfortable. A mode for those who don’t particularly bother with what they can do, just press the button and that’s it. In many cases, this is correct, I'm talking about those situations if you don't understand anything about your camera at all, or you just bought it, etc. But sooner or later, I hope, you will get tired of constantly popping up flash (if you accidentally forgot to turn it off), or you will just want to find out what more your camera is capable of. If you choose the path - “do not bathe”, by the way, which is also quite likely, then well, you can stop reading this topic at this very place.
We go further, very close and dear to the regime Auto- mode "P"(programmed automatic mode). In this mode, the camera automatically selects the required and by default. You can control this ratio, if possible, of course (in low light, you won't be able to fix anything). This mode already makes you think about what you are doing, therefore, for those who take pictures back in Auto I advise you to urgently switch to the regime "R", it won’t get worse, but it’s better - I hope!
Mode, which is indicated by a Latin letter "S"(priority mode). This mode you need to know when to use it, it is intended, judging by its name, to control your shutter speed, it is. You control and the camera sets automatically, depending on the selected shutter speed. This mode is useful if you are not satisfied with the shutter speed that the camera imposes on you. For example, if you are shooting handheld in a dark room and don't want to blur the frame, you can set the shutter speed you need using the mode "S".
Mode "BUT"(priority mode).
This mode is the exact opposite of the previous one. Those. in this mode, you set the value and the camera controls automatically. As for me, this is the most convenient mode, 90% of all the photos that I photograph are taken in this mode! Why, yes, because controlling the aperture is much easier than controlling everything, or controlling the shutter speed! For example, you are photographing a portrait of a person, in mode "BUT" quickly set the one you need, and then you want to photograph the landscape, without switching anything you just change the aperture value. Simple, comfortable? Yes!"M"(manual) or manual mode. You have to set both the shutter speed and the aperture, and still control the . My advice to you, if you hear from someone - take pictures only in mode "M" and you will be a cool photographer, run away from this person, this mode should be used extremely rarely, and in certain situations, for example, if you (I still take pictures in it when I attach old Soviet lenses to the camera, but not because I want to but because there is no other way). Why am I so negative about this, because I have met very, well, very few people (or rather, I have not met any) who can do it faster and better than a professional DSLR, in which the developers have invested all their experience , and not small. Yes, you can choose the parameters you need, while spending a lot of time on it, do you need it? You have a SLR camera in your hands, you are in the 21st century, if you want thrills - pick up a film camera, exposure meter and take pictures the way my father did, who took pictures on film for 20 years, developed it and took it during sleepless nights Photo.
Bonus: “video” mode, everything seems so clear, rejoice those who have it, and rejoice even more those who do not have it! Although sometimes, very rarely, I regret that I don’t have it on my cameras.
Modern cameras are rich functionality. They usually have built-in standard photo shooting programs that help beginners and photography enthusiasts to take high-quality pictures. Fully automatic shooting modes such as portrait, landscape, sports and others save the photographer from the headache of manually adjusting various camera settings.
Everything is simple here - if you shoot sports competitions, then you choose the “sports” shooting mode, if you take pictures outside the city, in nature – “landscape”. In these scene programs, camera settings are automatically adapted to specific shooting conditions. However, professional photography implies constant practice and control of the photographer over the situation. In this case, the photographer already becomes cramped within the framework of traditional subject programs, and here software or “creative” camera modes come to the rescue.
"Creative" photography modes are available on almost most modern semi-professional and professional cameras. There may be several of them, but usually they are all limited to four basic ones: programmed automatic mode "P", shutter speed priority "S", aperture priority "A" and full manual mode "M". All these modes are based on data from the exposure meter, which is responsible for metering the exposure of the frame. Let's take a closer look at the "creative" modes of photography.
Programmed auto mode "P"(programmed) is a simple photography mode when the camera independently selects the minimum shutter speed and aperture value (exposure pair) for specific shooting conditions. By and large, this mode differs little from traditional automatic modes photographs that are available in each camera. The only difference is that when using this mode, the photographer gets additional opportunity to adjust a number of parameters - the sensitivity of the matrix, white balance, etc. But, in general, this mode can be equated to automatic and is often used only in situations where there is simply not enough time to set the shooting parameters.
The next mode is Aperture-priority photography mode "A"(aperture) or Av. This mode allows the photographer to control aperture and depth of field. The user has the ability to set the aperture value, and the camera automatically determines the shutter speed for optimal exposure in accordance with the data from the exposure meter. The larger the f-number (f), the greater the depth of field. Conversely, a smaller f-number reduces the depth of field, blurring the background and bringing out details. Aperture priority mode is used in many genres of photography, as it allows the photographer full control over the depth of field, and other parameters can be easily adjusted to get a high-quality picture. Aperture-priority A mode is especially relevant when shooting macro and portraits.
Shutter-Priority "S" Shooting Mode(shutter speed) or Tv allows the photographer to take control of the shutter speed already, while the aperture value (f) is set automatically by the camera. Why is this mode needed? First of all, in order to emphasize the movement in the frame. By controlling shutter speed, the photographer can highlight movement by blurring moving objects (long shutter speed), or, conversely, “freeze” the action in the frame (short shutter speed). The shutter-priority S mode is used when shooting with panning, sports, moving water, fireworks, etc. True, it should be borne in mind that shutter speeds are greater than aperture values, so for a particular shutter speed you may simply not find the exact aperture value. This means that the camera will simply use the nearest aperture value. As a result, the frame may be underexposed or overexposed.
Finally, the last basic photography mode is fully manual mode "M"(Manual), in which the photographer is given the opportunity to independently manage all camera settings. With manual mode, you can easily experiment to achieve the desired result by practicing, making mistakes and making adjustments. Here the photographer independently adjusts the shutter speed and aperture without any restrictions. To select the correct exposure, you can use the metering data, which shows the amount of under- or overexposure for the current camera settings. With this mode, you can shoot almost everything, the main thing is to learn how to properly control the flow of light.
Manual mode is very popular in studio and night photography, as it makes it possible to set absolutely any shutter speed and aperture at any sensitivity value. With the help of it, the creative possibilities and talent of the photographer are most fully revealed. To achieve the desired artistic effect, you can for a long time"play" with the camera settings, looking for the optimal shutter speed and aperture. Manual shooting mode gives the user the opportunity to get to know their camera to perfection and develop their photographic abilities.
In addition to the basic photography modes, some cameras have a number of additional modes. For example, the mode aperture priority and shutter speed "TAv", in which the photographer can set the required aperture and shutter speed, and the camera automatically sets the required sensor sensitivity. Or aperture priority mode with depth of field control "A-Dep", where the camera measures the distance to objects in the foreground and background and sets the aperture. However, these additional modes have not yet become widespread.
Photo modes allow the photographer to have full control over the camera settings and in the minimum time to adjust the settings of his camera to suit specific conditions or creative intent. Constant practice and experimentation will help you fully master the built-in photography modes. Using the various shooting modes is the way to unleash your creativity and master the full potential of your digital camera.
Every novice photographer knows about scene shooting programs - in fact, they are created in order to save the beginner from a headache. You shoot a person - you choose "portrait", you shoot a village - "landscape". Everything is simple, and most importantly, it has long been thought out by a large number of photographers, programmers and marketers. By the way, if you are a beginner and have not yet studied the subject programs, it is better to stop reading right here and go shoot and practice them.
Difficulties begin when a person who is interested begins to have questions and disputes with the camera - when it is already crowded within the framework of these very programs, you want more, and the camera continues to stupidly shoot at the same settings. Here, 4 program ("creative") modes are recalled, for the incomprehensibility of which it was decided to "temporarily" forget them.
There are no more than 4 of these modes in a conventional camera. There are fewer, but for some time now manufacturers have come up with 5, so the figure is not fixed.
Let's consider them in more detail:
* P - just program mode. The camera itself chooses the minimum shutter speed and aperture value ("exposure") required for a clear picture in given conditions. You can conditionally equate it with the "auto" mode, with the only exception that you can usually adjust a number of parameters, in contrast to the scene programs or the "auto" mode (i.e. white balance, sensor sensitivity, jpeg settings, etc.). The mode is absolutely mindless and therefore having dubious usefulness.
* A (Av - Canon) - aperture priority mode. The user sets the required aperture value, and the camera sets the shutter speed, in accordance with the exposure meter data. The mode most loved by most photographers, in which it is possible to fully control the depth of field (an open aperture, for example, 1.8 or 2.8 corresponds to a shallow depth of field and is often referred to as a "big hole", closed, for example, 16 or 22, on the contrary - large). The only drawback of the mode is that the shutter speed range with which it works is limited from below, namely, at shutter speeds longer than, for example, 4 seconds, it will not work in a number of cameras, although more is indicated in the camera specification - it is simply considered that for more than 4 seconds the frame will still be smeared if you hold the camera with your hands. It is also convenient when you want to achieve "maximum sharpness" for a particular lens - if it is believed that glass is soapy at 2.8, and gives better sharpness at 4-8, then you just need to set 5.6 and forget about soapy frames.
* S (Tv - Canon) - shutter priority mode. The user sets the desired shutter speed, and the camera sets the aperture. The mode is quite limited and is usually used when shooting sports events, when the need to capture the moment is much more important than working out the background. By the way, children fall under sports events, which can sometimes be "grabbed" only for 1/250 sec. - then certainly will not run away. You can use slow shutter speeds - for example, when shooting with wiring.
* M - fully manual mode. The user manually sets all parameters. Usually automatic sensitivity can be set in the first three modes, but not available in manual ... the answer is simple: this mode is chosen by those who experiment or know exactly what they are doing. The mode completely removes the restrictions on night shooting, because. allows the user to set absolutely any shutter speed and aperture at any sensitivity value. You can also take deliberately underexposed or overexposed pictures, shoot with lenses that are not designed for this camera, etc. Night shooting deserves a separate reservation - since there is a lot of time (and the sky is black, which puts the exposure meter into a stupor, because it will consider the picture dark and increase the shutter speed indefinitely - for which the limitation is introduced in the aperture priority mode), you can stand near the tripod for a long time with different values of exposure parameters in order to achieve the desired effect: lubrication of water or car lights when long exposure, the appearance of stars in the sky at a very slow shutter speed, or shooting falling drops of water at a very fast shutter speed.
