Printed circuit boards of various types are characterized by the complexity and laboriousness of production. They require modern production equipment and staff experience. The Telerem company employs a staff of experienced specialists who can solve any problems, so we guarantee high-quality and timely production of printed circuit boards to order of any complexity, taking into account all the wishes of the client. You can order printed circuit board by phone.
Opportunities for the manufacture of printed circuit boards in "Telerem"
Our company offers to buy printed circuit boards in Moscow, which will meet all the requirements and standards. The main features of our production of printed circuit boards include:
the most optimal terms of order fulfillment - within 4 days we provide the client with an experimental batch of printed circuit boards, which makes it possible to carry out all the necessary tests before starting the production of a whole series of products. Such efficiency allows us to understand the capabilities of the manufactured boards in the shortest possible time, assess whether they are suitable for performing the assigned tasks, and make a decision on mass production of products, while maintaining the consistently excellent quality of products;
production of printed circuit boards in a series of products is carried out within 30 days and allows you to reduce production costs when ordering a large batch, as well as maintain the ratio of production time and High Quality products. We take orders of any format and volume;
in addition, you can place an order for printed circuit boards on aluminum. They are used in elements that require high heat dissipation rates. Despite a slightly higher cost, aluminum printed circuit boards, which you can buy from our company, turn out to be quite reasonable.
By contact phone you can contact our employees, provide them with the terms of reference and order a printed circuit board in Russia of high quality and at the most affordable price. Modern equipment, our own production line and qualified employees guarantee the creation of high-quality printed circuit boards for a wide range of tasks.
A printed circuit board is a dielectric plate, on the surface of which conductive tracks are applied and places for mounting electronic components are prepared. Electroradio components are usually installed on the board by soldering.
PCB device
The electrically conductive tracks of the board are made of foil. The thickness of the conductors is, as a rule, 18 or 35 microns, less often 70, 105, 140 microns. The board has holes and pads for mounting radio elements.
Separate holes are used to connect conductors located on different sides of the board. A special protective coating and markings are applied to the outer sides of the board.
Stages of creating a printed circuit board
In amateur radio practice, one often has to deal with the development, creation and manufacture of various electronic devices. Moreover, any device can be built on a printed circuit or conventional board with surface mounting. The printed circuit board works much better, is more reliable and looks more attractive. Creating it involves performing a number of operations:
Layout preparation;
Drawing a picture on textolite;
Etching;
Tinning;
Installation of radio elements.
The manufacture of printed circuit boards is a complex, time-consuming, interesting process.
Development and production of a layout
The board drawing can be done manually or on a computer using one of the special programs.
Manually, it is best to draw the board on paper from recorders at a scale of 1: 1. Graph paper is also suitable. Installed electronic components must be depicted in a mirror image. Tracks on one side of the board are shown as solid lines, and on the other side as dotted lines. Dots mark the places of attachment of radioelements. Ration areas are drawn around these places. All drawings are usually performed by a drawer. Manually, as a rule, simple drawings are made, more complex circuit board designs are developed on a computer in special applications.
Most often, a simple Sprint Layout program is used. Only a laser printer is suitable for printing. The paper must be glossy. The main thing is that the toner does not eat into, but remains on top. The printer must be set up so that the drawing toner thickness is at its maximum.
The industrial production of printed circuit boards begins with the input of the circuit diagram of the device into the system computer-aided design, which creates a drawing of the future board.
Preparing the workpiece and drilling holes
First of all, you need to cut a piece of textolite with the specified dimensions. Finish the edges with a file. Attach the drawing to the board. Prepare the drilling tool. Drill directly according to the drawing. The drill must be of good quality and match the diameter of the smallest hole. If possible, a drilling machine should be used.
Having made all the necessary holes, take a drawing and drill each hole to the specified diameter. Clean the surface of the board with fine sandpaper. This is necessary to eliminate burrs and to improve the adhesion of the paint to the board. To remove traces of fat, treat the board with alcohol.
Drawing a picture on fiberglass
The drawing of the board on the textolite can be applied manually or using one of many technologies. The most popular laser-ironing technology.
Drawing by hand begins with the designation of mounting sites around the holes. They are applied with a drawer or a match. The holes are connected by tracks in accordance with the drawing. It is better to draw with nitro paint, in which rosin is dissolved. This solution provides strong adhesion to the board and good resistance to high temperature etching. As a paint, you can use asphalt-bitumen varnish.
The production of printed circuit boards using laser ironing technology gives good results. It is important to perform all operations correctly and accurately. The degreased board must be placed on a flat surface with the copper up. From above, carefully place the drawing with the toner down. In addition, put a few more sheets of paper. Iron the resulting design with a hot iron for about 30-40 seconds. Under the influence of temperature, the toner should change from a solid to a viscous state, but not to a liquid. Let the board cool down and place it for a few minutes in warm water.
The paper will sag and peel off easily. You should carefully examine the resulting drawing. The absence of individual tracks indicates an insufficient temperature of the iron, wide tracks are obtained when the iron is too hot or the board is heated for an excessively long time.
Small defects can be corrected with a marker, paint or nail polish. If you don’t like the workpiece, then you need to wash everything off with a solvent, clean it sandpaper and repeat the process again.
Etching
A degreased printed circuit board is placed in a plastic container with a solution. At home, ferric chloride is usually used as a solution. The bath with it needs to be shaken periodically. After 25-30 minutes, the copper will completely dissolve. Etching can be accelerated by using a heated ferric chloride solution. At the end of the process, the printed circuit board is removed from the bath, thoroughly washed with water. Then the paint is removed from the conductive tracks.
Tinning
There are many ways to tin. We have a printed circuit board ready. At home, as a rule, there are no special devices and alloys. Therefore, they use a simple reliable method. The board is covered with flux and tinned with a soldering iron with ordinary solder using a copper braid.
Installation of radioelements
At the final stage, the radio components are alternately inserted into the places intended for them and soldered. The legs of the parts must be fluxed before soldering and, if necessary, shortened.
The soldering iron should be used carefully: with excess heat, the copper foil may begin to peel off, the printed circuit board will be damaged. Remove rosin residues with alcohol or acetone. The finished board can be varnished.
Industrial development
At home, it is impossible to design and manufacture a printed circuit board for high-end equipment. For example, the printed circuit board of an amplifier for high-end equipment is multilayer, copper conductors are coated with gold and palladium, conductive tracks have different thicknesses, etc. Achieving this level of technology is not easy, even in industrial enterprise. Therefore, in some cases it is advisable to purchase a ready-made high-quality board or place an order for work to be performed according to your own scheme. At present, the production of printed circuit boards has been established at many domestic enterprises and abroad.
Since I'm an engineering student, I often make projects at home with fairly simple electronic circuits, and for this I often make PCBs myself.
What is a printed circuit board?
A printed circuit board (PCB) is used for mechanical mounting of radio components and their electrical connection using a conductive pattern, contact pads and other components etched on the copper layer of a laminated plate.
There are pre-designed copper tracks on the PCB. Properly designing connections through these traces reduces the number of wires used and therefore the amount of damage caused by broken connections. The components are mounted on the PCB by soldering.
Creation methods
There are three main ways to make printed circuit boards with your own hands:
- LUT PCB manufacturing technology
- Laying tracks manually
- Etching on a laser machine
The laser etching method is industrial, so I will talk more about the first two manufacturing methods.
Step 1: Create the PCB layout
Typically, wiring is done by converting the circuit diagram using special programs. There are many free programs in the public domain, for example:
I created the layout using the first program.
Do not forget in the image settings (File - Export - Image) select DPIG 1200 for best quality Images.
Step 2: Board materials
(text on photo):
- Magazines or promotional brochures
- Laser printer
- regular iron
- Copper Coated Laminate for PP
- pickling solution
- foam sponge
- Solvent (e.g. acetone)
- Wire in plastic insulation
You will also need: permanent marker, sharp knife, sandpaper, paper towels, cotton wool, old clothes.
I will explain the technology using the example of manufacturing a PP touch switch with IC555.
Step 3: Print out the wiring
Print the wiring diagram on a sheet of A4 glossy or photo paper on a laser printer. Do not forget:
- You need to print the image in mirror image
- Select "Print All Black" in both PCB design software and laser printer settings
- Make sure the image will be printed on the glossy side of the paper.
Step 4: Cut out the board from the laminate
Cut out a piece of laminate sheet the same size as the board layout image.
Step 5: Sanding the Board
Scrub the foil side with a steel wool or the abrasive side of a dishwashing sponge. This is necessary to remove the oxide film and the photosensitive layer.
On a rough surface, the image fits better.
Step 6: Schematic Options
Option 1:
LUT: transfer of an image printed on a glossy layer of paper onto a foil layer of a laminate. Place the printed image on a horizontal surface with the toner facing up. Lay the board on top of the copper layer on the image. The image should be positioned exactly relative to the edges. Fasten the laminate and the image on both sides with tape so that the paper cannot move, the sticky layer of the tape should not get on the copper coating.
Option 2:
Marking the traces with a permanent marker: Using the printed wiring as a sample, mark the circuit on the copper layer of a piece of laminate, first with a pencil, then trace with a permanent black marker.
Step 7: Smoothing Out The Image
- The printed image must be ironed. Heat up the iron to maximum temperature.
- put a clean, unnecessary cloth on a flat wooden surface, put the future board on it with the copper layer up with the circuit image pressed against it.
- on one side, press the board with a hand with a towel, on the other, press it with an iron. Hold the iron for 10 seconds, then start ironing with paper, pressing a little, for 5-15 minutes.
- iron the edges well - with pressure, slowly moving the iron.
- a long press works better than constantly ironing.
- the toner should melt and stick to the copper layer.
Step 8: Cleaning the Board
After ironing, place it in warm water for about 10 minutes. The paper will get wet and can be removed. Remove paper at a low angle and preferably without residue.
Sometimes pieces of tracks are removed with paper.
The white rectangle in the photographs marks the place where the tracks were poorly transferred and then restored with a black permanent marker.
Step 9: Etching
When pickling, you need to be extremely careful.
- put on rubber gloves or plastic-coated gloves first
- cover the floor with newspapers just in case
- fill the plastic box with water
- add 2-3 teaspoons of ferric chloride powder to the water
- soak the board in the solution for about 30 minutes
- ferric chloride will react with copper and copper, not protected by a layer of toner, will go into solution
- to check how the internal parts of the board are being etched, remove the board from the solution with pliers, if the inside has not yet been cleaned of copper, leave it in the solution for some more time.
Stir the solution lightly to make the reaction more active. The solution produces copper chloride and iron chloride.
Check every two to three minutes to see if all of the copper has been etched off the board.
Step 10: Safety
Do not touch the solution with bare hands, be sure to use gloves.
The photo shows how the etching takes place.
Step 11: Solution Disposal
The pickling solution is toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms.
Do not pour the used solution down the sink, it is illegal and can ruin the pipes.
Dilute the solution to reduce the concentration and only then drain into the public sewer.
Step 12: Finishing the Manufacturing Process
The photo shows for comparison two printed circuit boards made using a LUT and a permanent marker.
put a few drops of solvent (you can use nail polish remover) on a cotton swab and remove the remaining toner from the board, you should be left with only copper tracks. Proceed with care, then dry the board with a clean cloth. Cut the board to size and sand the edges with sandpaper.
Drill mounting holes and solder all components to the board.
Step 13: Conclusion
- Laser ironing technology effective method making printed circuit boards at home. If you do everything carefully, each track will turn out clear.
- Routing with a permanent marker is limited by our artistic skills. This method is suitable for the simplest circuits, for something more complex it is better to make the board in the first way.
Recently, radio electronics as a hobby in the world is gaining popularity, people are becoming interested in creating electronic devices with their own hands. There are a huge number of circuits on the Internet, from simple to complex, performing various tasks, so everyone can find in the world of radio electronics what they like.
An integral part of any electronic device is the printed circuit board. It is a plate of dielectric material, on which copper conductive tracks are applied that connect electronic components. Each of those who wish to learn how to assemble electrical circuits in a beautiful way must learn how to make these same printed circuit boards.
Exist computer programs, which allow you to draw a pattern of PCB tracks in a convenient interface, the most popular of them is . The layout of the printed circuit board is carried out in accordance with the circuit diagram of the device, there is nothing complicated in this, it is enough just to connect the necessary parts with tracks. In addition, many circuit diagrams of electronic devices on the Internet already come with ready-made printed circuit board drawings.
A good printed circuit board is the key to a long and happy operation of the device, so you should try to make it as accurately and efficiently as possible. The most common method of making printed ones at home is the so-called "", or "laser-ironing technology". It has gained wide popularity because it does not take much time, does not require scarce ingredients and is not so difficult to learn. Briefly, LUT can be described as follows: let's say there is a pattern of tracks drawn on a computer. Next, this pattern must be printed on special thermal transfer paper, transferred to a textolite, then etched off excess copper from the board, drilled holes in the right places and tinned the tracks. Let's break down the whole process step by step:
Printing a board pattern
1) Printing a pattern on thermal transfer paper. You can buy such paper, for example, on Aliexpress, where it costs mere pennies - 10 rubles per A4 sheet. Instead, you can use any other glossy paper, for example, from magazines. However, the quality of toner transfer from such paper may be much worse. Some use Lomond glossy photo paper, a good option If not for the price - such photo paper is much more expensive. I recommend trying to print the drawing on different papers, and then compare with which one you get the best result.
Another important point when printing a picture, the printer settings. AT without fail you need to disable toner saving, but the density should be set to the maximum, because the thicker the toner layer, the better for our purposes.
You also need to take into account such a moment that the picture will be transferred to the textolite in a mirror image, so you need to foresee whether or not you need to mirror the picture before printing. This is especially critical on boards with microcircuits, because the other side cannot supply them.
Preparing textolite for transferring a pattern onto it
2) The second stage is the preparation of the textolite for transferring the drawing onto it. Most often, textolite is sold in segments 70x100 or 100x150 mm in size. It is necessary to cut off a piece suitable for the dimensions of the board, with a margin of 3-5 mm along the edges. It is most convenient to cut textolite with a hacksaw for metal or a jigsaw, in extreme cases it can be cut off with scissors for metal. Then, this piece of textolite should be wiped with fine sandpaper or a hard eraser. Minor scratches form on the surface of the copper foil, this is normal. Even if initially the textolite looks perfectly even, this step is necessary, otherwise it will be difficult to tin it later. After sanding, the surface must be wiped with alcohol or a solvent to wash off dust and greasy marks from hands. After that, you can not touch the copper surface.
Transferring the pattern to the prepared textolite
3) The third stage is the most responsible. It is necessary to transfer the pattern printed on thermal transfer paper to the prepared textolite. To do this, cut the paper as shown in the photo, leaving reserves at the edges. We put paper on a flat wooden board with the pattern up, then we apply textolite on top, with copper to the paper. We bend the edges of the paper as if it were hugging a piece of textolite. After that, carefully flip the sandwich so that the paper is on top. We check that the drawing has not shifted anywhere relative to the textolite and put a clean piece of ordinary office white paper on top so that it covers the entire sandwich.
Now it remains only to heat the whole thing thoroughly, and all the toner from the paper will be on the textolite. You need to attach a heated iron on top and heat the sandwich for 30-90 seconds. The heating time is selected experimentally and largely depends on the temperature of the iron. If the toner went badly and remained on the paper, you need to keep it longer, if, on the contrary, the tracks are transferred, but smeared, this is a clear sign of overheating. It is not necessary to put pressure on the iron, its own weight is enough. After warming up, you need to remove the iron and iron the workpiece that has not yet cooled down with a cotton swab, in case the toner did not pass well when ironing with an iron in some places. After that, it remains only to wait until the future board cools down and remove the thermal transfer paper. It may not work the first time, it does not matter, because experience comes with time.
PCB etching
4) The next step is etching. Any area of copper foil that is not covered by the toner must be removed, leaving the copper under the toner untouched. First you need to prepare a solution for etching copper, the simplest, most affordable and cheapest option is a solution of citric acid, salt and hydrogen peroxide. In a plastic or glass container, you need to stir one or two tablespoons of citric acid and a teaspoon table salt to a glass of water. Proportions do not play a big role, you can pour it on the eye. Mix thoroughly and the solution is ready. You need to put a board in it, tracks down to speed up the process. You can also slightly warm the solution, this will further increase the speed of the process. After about half an hour, all excess copper will be etched away and only tracks will remain.
Rinse toner from tracks
5) The hardest part is over. At the fifth stage, when the board is already etched, you need to wash off the toner from the tracks with a solvent. The most affordable option is female nail polish remover, it costs a penny and almost every woman has it. Common solvents such as acetone can also be used. I use petroleum solvent, although it stinks a lot, it does not leave any black stains on the board. In extreme cases, you can remove the toner by rubbing the board well with sandpaper.
Drilling holes on the board
6) Drilling holes. You will need a small drill with a diameter of 0.8 - 1 mm. Ordinary high speed steel drills quickly become dull on PCB, so it is best to use tungsten carbide drills, although they are more fragile. I drill the boards with an old hair dryer motor with a small collet chuck, and the holes come out clean and burr-free. Unfortunately, at the most inopportune moment, the last carbide drill broke, so only half of the holes were drilled in the photographs. The rest can be drilled later.
Tin tracks
7) It remains only to tin the copper tracks, i.e. cover with solder. Then they will not oxidize over time, and the board itself will become beautiful and shiny. First you need to apply flux to the tracks, and then quickly crawl over them with a soldering iron with a drop of solder. You should not apply an excessively thick layer of solder, then the holes may close, and the board will look sloppy.
This completes the PCB manufacturing process, now you can solder parts into it. The material was provided for the Radio Scheme website by Mikhail Gretsky, [email protected]
Discuss the article MANUFACTURING OF PRINTED BOARDS WITH LUT
Greetings dear friends! Today I want to tell you one wonderful news and this news may be of interest to you, so be sure to read to the end.
Friends walking through the pages of my blog, you probably know that I periodically post various amateur radio designs that I myself make. So, in the manufacture of printed circuit boards, I have achieved stability, when a completely high-quality result is obtained literally from one or the second attempt. And those who have come across amateur radio technology LUT, I think they will agree with me that this result is not even bad.
In where I described all the intricacies of manufacturing printed circuit boards at home, everyone will find all the comprehensive information on this issue. However, for a number of reasons, not everyone who wants to get a printed circuit board has a desire to master this tricky technology.
Therefore, for everyone who wants to get a high-quality printed circuit board and at the same time does not want to bother with various technological methods, I have a cool offer!
And this proposal is that I open the production of printed circuit boards to order. What does it mean?
This means that if you need to manufacture printed circuit boards, then just leave your email in the form below.
How will the interaction be carried out?
- You leave your email through the specified form
- I contact you by e-mail where we discuss the details (PCB file, technical details, production volume, timing, payment and delivery)
- If everything suits you, then pay for the order and I will start making boards.
- After manufacturing, I photograph the boards and send you a photo, if the result suits you, then I send it to your address.
If the result does not suit you, I am always ready to return the money!
What technology will be used to manufacture printed circuit boards?
Printed circuit boards will be manufactured using the LUT technology or otherwise the “Laser iron” method, while the following actions are performed:
- The printed circuit board drawing created by you in some editor (Sprint layout or Eagle CAD or some other) is transferred to photo paper using a laser printer (I have an old samsung ML1615 printer). It is also possible to use a bitmap image as a source file (for example, from a magazine or from the Internet).
- Further, the image with the help of an ordinary iron is transferred to a cleaned and fat-free fiberglass.
- The board with the printed image is etched in ferric chloride, as a result, everything that is not covered with paint disappears.
- Now it remains to drill holes and ALL!
As a result of these actions, a printed circuit board with a conductive pattern comparable to domestic military production is born! And indeed it is!
What PCBs can I manufacture?
- On the this moment I am fluent in LUT technology and can produce printed circuit boards up to A5 format (148x210).
- Boards can be both single-sided and double-sided.
- The minimum thickness of the printed conductor reaches 0.1 mm, but in practice it is not worth doing less than 0.3 mm. Getting such a pattern on the board is not a problem, only very thin tracks are sensitive to a heated soldering iron ...
- The minimum diameter of the mounting hole that I can provide reaches 0.5mm.
How is the delivery?
- At the moment delivery by mail of Russia is possible.
Well friends, if you have any questions, be sure to ask them through the form feedback I will definitely answer them!
Vladimir Vasiliev was with you and see you soon!
