1. Through the history of the Russian costume, show the life of a person, tell what role clothing played in it.
2. To teach by clothes to determine the era in which a person lived, his social status.
3. Introduce children to new words, with the names of the details of old Russian clothing.
4. To teach children to see history in the objects that surround us.
5. Develop imaginative thinking in oral work.
During the classes.
Stages:
I. Organizational moment.
II. Reviewing what was learned in the previous lesson.
In the previous lesson, we talked about clothes. Remind me why a person needs clothes? (Its purpose: not only warms, protects, decorates a person, but also shows his place in society.)
The task is the game “Dress the doll”.
Choose ancient Greek and Roman clothes and dress up a paper doll. ( Appendix 1 (pril1.zip))(Ancient Greece: chiton, himation. Ancient Rome: tunic, toga).
Why did the ancient Greeks have such revealing clothing? (Because warm, mild climate)
Could Roman clothing have taken root in other countries? In Europe? (Europe has a harsh climate and such clothing would be cold and uncomfortable)
III. Announcement of the topic and objectives of the lesson.
In Russia, the climate was also not hot - long winters and cool summers - another people lived with their own customs and traditions. Therefore, the clothes of the inhabitants Ancient Russia was completely different. And what it was like - we'll talk about this in today's lesson, its topic is: "How they dressed in Russia." In the lesson, we will learn how the costume changed in different centuries. Let's see what role clothing played in the life of a Russian person.
IV. New material.
1. 1. “They meet by clothes ...” This well-known proverb came to us from the depths of centuries. A thousand years ago, it was enough for our ancestors to look at the clothes of a stranger once to understand what locality he is from, what kind of tribe he belongs to, whether he is married, whether he is married, whether he is rich or poor.
This made it possible to immediately decide how to behave with a stranger and what to expect from him.
2. And in ancient times, Russians called clothes - “clothes”. And the main garment was a Russian shirt. Ancestors believed that clothing is amulet. (the word "Charm" is put on the board) amulet means to protect. What does it protect from? From bad weather, shelters from the "evil eye", from the effects of evil forces. Therefore, all the vulnerable places of the human body were hidden: Ancient shirts were necessarily long - below the knee, had an almost closed collar, long sleeves to the wrists.
Everyone wore shirts: girls and boys, boys and girls, men and women, rich and poor.
2. Men's clothing of the tenth century.
As the story progresses, the teacher puts the drawings on the blackboard in a certain order. (The design of the board is presented in Appendix 2).
<Рисунок 1>A peasant shirt was sewn from canvas. They wore it for graduation and girdled with a narrow belt or colored cord. It was both upper and lower clothing.
<Рисунок 2>Since the clothes were festive and everyday, they put on a shirt on special occasions. sleeves(all underlined words are put on the board) and detachable round collars.
Picture 1
Figure 2
Noble people put on another, upper, richer shirt over the lower one. Ports or pants were not wide, narrowed down, tied at the waist with a cord.
3. Women's clothes of peasants.
Women also wore a shirt, but it was long, to the feet (like a dress) with long sleeves. The collar and the bottom of the sleeves were decorated with embroidery. The shirt was sewn from white linen or colored silk and worn with a belt.
<Рисунок 3>Worn over a shirt ponyuvu- a skirt consisting of 3 unsewn rectangular pieces of fabric, fastened to a strap. Poneva - meant a piece of cloth, a veil. She was shorter than a shirt, and in front her floors diverged. The fabric for the pony was colorful, with a checkered pattern (from the cells one could guess the village where the woman came from).
What were the peasants doing? They worked, and during work it was possible to tuck the corners of the poneva and put it in the belt so as not to interfere with movements.
<Рисунок 4>outerwear was zapon - overhead clothing, unstitched on the sides. The zapona was shorter than the shirt. It was worn with a belt and cut off at the bottom.
Figure 3
Figure 4
- What were the shoes of the peasants?
- What were the bast shoes made of? (from birch bark, from bast)
Birch bark is the top layer of bark stripped from birch. It was divided into strips and bast shoes were woven. (Showing bast shoes: sandals from aspen are light, from birch - yellow) But they took not only birch bark, but also linden, and aspen, and other trees. Weaved in different places different ways(with and without rim).
Bast shoes were fastened to the leg with long strings or ropes. They dressed not on a bare leg, but on onuchi- pieces of fabric up to two meters long.
Practical work: putting onuche and bast shoes on the student.
Story while dressing:
Onuchi were wrapped around the leg in a certain way, covering the bottom of the pants. Weaving bast shoes was considered an easy job, which men did literally in between times. But bast shoes did not last long. In winter, they were worn in 10 days, after a thaw - in 4, in the summer in the field - in 3 days. Going on a long journey, they took a lot of spare bast shoes with them on the road. There is a proverb: "To go on the road - weave five bast shoes."
And merchants and noble people wore boots.
5. Clothing of noble people.
<Рисунок 5>Rich, noble women put on clothes called retinue. She had wide sleeves. In cold weather they wore raincoats.
<Рисунок 6>Scientists learned from handwritten books about what clothes the prince had (the prince is the ruler of the region, the leader of the army).
The prince is wearing a green retinue with golden sleeves. blue cloak Korzno with a golden border (only princes wore such a cloak) on a beautiful lining. On the head is a round hat with fur. On her feet are green boots made of very soft leather.
Figure 5
Figure 6
6. Let's repeat, what was common in the clothes of peasants and rich, noble people? (Everyone wore shirts)
There were casual and festive shirts.
Everyday shirts were almost not decorated - only the seams and edges were sheathed with red thread to block the way for evil forces.
For weddings, religious and labor holidays, our ancestors wore richly embroidered shirts. And since it was believed that on holidays a person talks with God, then the shirt also, as it were, participated in this “conversation”, in its language ornament- a repeating pattern - all the requests and desires of a person were recorded. Women diligently covered the collar, cuffs, shirt hem and sleeves near the shoulders with a pattern.
Reading a table. (A symbol table is posted on the board)
For security purposes, amulets (figurines) were worn on a cord or on a belt. The horse is a symbol of goodness and happiness, the wisdom of the gods. Spoon - satiety and well-being. The key - helped to preserve and increase wealth. Amulets in the form of weapons were purely masculine.
Creative task - each student is given paper templates in the form of a shirt and red pencils.
Explanation of the task: imagine ourselves as craftswomen of that time and “embroider” a pattern on shirts, write down our requests with symbols. Think about what kind of shirt you will have: everyday or festive.
(After completing the task, several students show their work in front of the class and decipher the symbols).
7. XV - XVII centuries.
And now let's look at the XV-XVII centuries. and find out how the people of Muscovite Russia dressed.
Men's clothing.
<Рисунок 7>men began to wear caftans. They were very different. Some are short, others are long, made of patterned expensive fabrics. Some were trimmed with buttonholes, metal and wooden buttons were sewn on. On others, the collar and bottom of the sleeves were beautifully embroidered with gold and silver.
<Рисунок 8>Fur coats were traditionally Russian clothing. She, as a valuable gift, was awarded for good service.
From above, the fur coats were covered with fabric, and the fur of sable, fox, arctic fox served as a lining. The fur coat was fastened with cords.
In Russia, the winter was cold and everyone wore a fur coat. And some boyars and nobles put on a fur coat in the summer and did not take it off even indoors, as a sign of their dignity.
Figure 7
Figure 8
8. Women's clothing.
<Рисунок 9>Wealthy women wear flyer- clothing extended downwards. A feature of the letnik was wide bell-shaped sleeves, sewn only to the elbow, then they hang freely to the waist. At the bottom they were embroidered with gold, pearls, silk.
<Рисунок 10>look at the picture and tell me what is the name of this clothes? (Sundress).
Figure 9
Figure 10
A sundress is a sleeveless dress worn over a long-sleeved shirt.
What do you think, whose clothes were the sundress, peasant women or rich women?
The fact is that the sundress, as scientists studying the history of the costume suggest, was first the clothes of women from the royal family and noble noblewomen. Only they were allowed to wear these outfits from expensive overseas fabrics - silk and velvet. Sundresses were richly decorated with embroidery and precious stones.
The Russian folk melody is included. A woman in a Russian costume enters the class.
“But she herself is majestic, acts like a peahen.” And indeed, a woman in a sundress does not walk, but “acts”, majestically and smoothly.
Fizminutka. The game is a round dance for words:
“Like in our lesson, Red Russian sundress
Here is such a width, Here is such a knot,
Here is such a beauty. Sing along soon:
Sundress, sundress, red Russian sundress!”
A woman in a suit puts on a shower jacket. - Dressed over a sundress I warm my soul- (warms the soul) short, wide clothes.
9. Hats. Pay attention to the headdress of our Russian beauty. It's called kokoshnik- This is the dress of a married woman. It was the most elegant headdress, it was embroidered with pearls. <Рисунок 11>
Figure 11
In the cold season, women of all ages covered their heads with a warm scarf. Only he was tied not under the chin, as we are used to, but in other ways.
Practical work. In front of the class, six students are tied with scarves, each in a special way. Example
And what hairstyles were worn in Ancient Russia?
Young girls wore their hair loose. But it is not convenient to work, wash, cook food with loose hair, so they tied it with a headband (show). They also braided their hair in a braid - certainly one - as a sign that while single - one). Only married women were allowed to weave two braids. They were wrapped around the head.
The girl's braid was considered a symbol of honor. To pull the scythe meant to offend.
10. XVII century. Let's travel to the 18th century.
In Russia, becoming Tsar Peter I changed a lot in the state, clothes also changed.
Peter forbade the boyars, all rich people to wear the old Russian costume and instead ordered the men to wear a short, tight caftan and camisole, long stockings and buckled shoes, a white wig or powdered hair and shave off beards.
<Рисунок 12>look at this and at the former costume of the boyars. They are completely different.
Imagine, now our president is issuing a decree that all men and boys wear skirts and dresses. And the girls were ordered to shave their heads. Would you like it? Even at that time, many people did not like Peter's decree.
<Рисунок 13>Women's costume was distinguished by splendor and wealth. Women wore dresses with a deep collar, such a collar was called - neckline. The dresses were fitted with a wide skirt. They wore corsages to be slimmer.
Be sure to wear a wig and high heels. Such clothes were supposed to be worn by people surrounding the king, and those who did not want to obey state decrees were forced by force, fined.
Everyone else was allowed to wear old boyar clothes, including a sundress. This is how the sundress became the favorite women's outfit of the common people. (The pattern of the sundress is outweighed)
Figure 12
Figure 13
V. Checking the assimilation of new material.
At the lesson, we looked at how the Russian costume changed over time.
Questions for children:
1. What is the purpose of the clothes of Ancient Russia?
- kept from the cold
- Amulet - protected from dark forces
- Decorated a person
- Shows his place in society.
2. All details of the Russian costume are “talking”. What can they tell?
- Rich or poor person
- Distinguish a girl from a married woman
- Festive or everyday wear
Task 1: try to determine who is in front of you from the illustration. <Рисунок 14,15,16,17>
Task 2: From the illustrations on the board, choose the costume that you liked the most and name all the details of this costume.
Like everything in the world, "talking" clothes are born and die. And now we wear very different clothes from what we used to wear. But we can in our time see people dressed in a Russian folk costume. Where can we do it? (At national holidays, at concerts, at the cinema).
Some elements of the Russian folk costume are used in modern clothes. (In the summer we wear sundresses, we put on scarves, shawls, mittens, embroidery, etc.)
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
VI. Summarizing. Homework.
What interesting things did you learn in the lesson?
Homework:
1. Text in the textbook on p. 63, answer questions.
2. Guess the crossword puzzle (given to each student). It encodes the names of the elements of Old Russian clothing.
Bibliography.
- Kaminskaya N.M. Costume history.
- Nersesov N.Ya. I Know the World: Children's Encyclopedia: Fashion History
- Semenova M. Life and beliefs of the ancient Slavs.
- We read, study, play // No. 7, 1998.
Historians have not come to a consensus on how the Russian clothes of the Proto-Slavic era looked like, since at that time the tribes lived mainly far from trade routes, often in forest areas and isolation. However, there are suggestions that the outfits in those days were simple and fairly monotonous. The latter is due to the fact that the home-based production of fabric was quite labor-intensive at that time, since there were practically no technical means for making wardrobe items.
Little information has been preserved about ancient clothes.
The state formation of Ancient Russia, whose clothes became more diverse as they contacted other peoples, began to take shape by the ninth century AD. Prior to this period, data on the appearance of the Slavs is minimal, since wardrobe items at that time were made from natural materials, the organic remains of which do not last long. In addition, it should be borne in mind that in the 6th-9th century AD, the Proto-Slavs had a custom to burn bodies before burial, therefore, the remains of melted jewelry or metal elements of clothing are found in burial grounds. Archaeologists were lucky only a few times when, for example, during excavations on Staraya Ladoga, they found the remains of the skin, which made it possible to restore appearance mittens and the likeness of stocking boots worn by our distant ancestors.
To fight in the same pants
In foreign written sources before the 10th century AD, there is no mention of Russian clothing either. Neither Byzantine authors nor Arabic sources write about this. Only P. Kesarsky in the sixth century mentioned that the Slavs (from the Balkans) go into battle in the same pants of a shortened style, without a cloak or chiton on top. Later, when the Slavs acquired a new version of writing, scientists, on the basis of written sources, had the opportunity to determine what people looked like at that time, at least the most eminent of them.
The kings wore shirts
What did those who ruled Ancient Russia look like? Svyatoslav Yaroslavovich, presented in the image in the Izbornik of 1073, is distinguished by a simple cut. This is a long, below the knees, shirt, over which a cloak is thrown over the top with a clasp on the shoulder. The prince has a hat on his head, presumably with a fur trim, and pointed boots on his feet. Members of his family standing nearby also wear shirts tied with belts. Svyatoslav's wife has a shirt almost to the floor, a scarf on her head. on a small child is a reduced copy of an adult. The sons of Yaroslav are dressed in the likeness of caftans with collars and, most likely, wore the so-called "ports" - rather narrow trousers with a tie at the hips. Wardrobe items in the image are painted in reddish-brown tones.
Clothes were made on a loom
Experts suggest that the light clothing of Kievan Rus was mostly white, since from prehistoric times the Slavs made wardrobe items from flax and hemp, which gave white fiber (or grayish, with insufficient bleaching). Already in the 6th-9th centuries, the tribes of Northern Russia knew a vertical loom, and in the south they found objects dating back to the 9th-10th centuries, which testified to possible work on a horizontal loom.
In addition to linen and hemp fabrics, the Slavs also actively used woolen, the remains of which were found in East Slavic burial mounds. In addition, due to climatic features, fur clothing was very popular. Tailors of that time already had the ability to sew together several skins to get a thing. big size. The skins of wolves, bears, rams were most often used for fur coats, and the trim (lining) was made of sable, otter, beaver, squirrel, ermine, and marten. Of course, only representatives of the nobility wore expensive furs. In Russia, they also knew how to process the skins of various animals (tanning with plant elements, etc.), so men's clothing in Russia included waist belts, mittens and leather shoes (for some members of the population). The Slavs more often wore leather products made from the skins of cows or goats than from horse skins.
Even in cold weather, they probably wore bast shoes
What was Ancient Russia shod in? Clothes from natural materials most of the population here in the cold season was supplemented with ... bast shoes and foot wraps, which are the oldest type of footwear (in summer, most likely, they went barefoot). Special hooks for archaeologists are still found at Neolithic sites, therefore, with a high probability, both Slavs and Proto-Slavs wore these models. Bast shoes were made, as expected, from the bark of various tree species and were very durable. In a later period, it was found that in winter a peasant wore out bast shoes in ten days, and in the summer season - in less than a week. Nevertheless, even the Red Army marched in such shoes in the 30s of the 20th century, and a special commission, Chekvolap, was engaged in the preparation of bast shoes for military purposes.
To the temple - only in Slavic clothes!
The Slavs, who inhabited Ancient Russia (whose clothes and shoes did not differ in a large assortment), nevertheless respected their simple wardrobe. For example, in the "Word of Danila the Sharpener" it is stated that "it would be better if we saw our foot in a lychenitsa (bast shoes) in your house than in a scarlet boot in a boyar yard." And the leader of the Czech Slavs Samo is known for not letting the ambassador of the German king Dagobert to his reception until he changed into Slavic clothes. The same fate befell the representative of the bishop, the German Herimann, who, before visiting the temple of Triglav in the town of Shchetino, had to change into a Slavic cloak and hat (1124 AD).
Women have always loved jewelry.
Archaeologists find it difficult to say what women's clothing looked like in Russia at the very beginning of the emergence of Russian statehood. It is assumed that in style it did not differ much from the men's shirt, only it was, perhaps, more richly decorated with embroidery and longer. Women wore prototypes of kokoshniks on their heads, often blue or green glass beads around their necks. Bracelets and rings were less common. In winter, the ladies wore fur coats, as well as capes with ties, like aprons - “ponyavs”, which protected the lower part of the body from behind and from the sides. Their presence was recorded as early as the 11th century AD.
Influence of other states
As contacts developed between other countries and the state of Ancient Russia, the clothes of the Slavs became more diverse due to new fabrics, borrowing styles and the division of society into different layers. For example, in pre-Mongolian Russia (10-13 centuries), the appearance of the Russian nobility was more in line with Byzantine traditions with their long flowing shirts, cloaks with fasteners. And among the common people, in particular among women, such tendencies were emphasized by a “crosslink” - a simple piece of fabric, folded in half, with a hole for the head, which was put on the main shirt and girded (there were no side seams on the backstrap). On holidays, the ladies wore "tops" made of embroidered fabrics, which were worn over a tie or shirt and were tunics without a belt with wide sleeves. Almost all clothes of the times of Kievan Rus were put on over the head and did not have their own collar (there were overhead ones).
Clothing of the Mongol warriors
The Tatar-Mongol invasion left certain borrowings in the sphere of material culture, which influenced the way clothes were in Russia in subsequent centuries. Many wardrobe items of the Mongol warriors later appeared in Russian men, including boots with felt coats made of two layers of fur (outer and inner), trousers, armyaks, skullcaps (tafyas), sashes, etc.
How did the clothes of Muscovite Rus differ from the clothes of Kievan Rus?
The clothes of the 15th century, when the Tatar-Mongol yoke was overthrown and Russia became the Moscow principality, changed in accordance with the era, but mainly for boyars, nobles and townspeople. During this period, the main features of the costume of Kievan Rus were preserved in the costume - a shirt and ports for men, an uncut cut of wardrobe items, a significant length, but signs of a new fashion appeared. These include, in particular, the presence of swing clothes in the wardrobes. For women, it was unbuttoned to the bottom, for men - to the waist, and at first it was supplied with a butt clasp through hinged loops. Later, the right floor formed from above to the left, which was explained by the convenience of such fasteners for men in saber battles.
Fake sleeves and gold embroidery
Around this period, non-functional elements appear in the clothes of the nobility. These include framed multi-layered collars and folding sleeves, which, for example, on okhabna, were tied on the back, emphasizing that the wearer of the clothes does not do hard work. Rich people could wear several layers of clothing even in the hot season. At the same time, wardrobe items were often completely fastened with fasteners. The latter led to the fact that the clothes had many elements of a jewelry level, including decoration with pearls, precious stones, embroidery with gold and silver wire, buttons made of gold, silver, enamel and precious stones.
There were also items in the Russian wardrobe of that time that could emphasize certain properties of the figure. These include a waist bag-purse ("kalita"), which the warriors wore at the waist with a slender figure, and the boyars - on the hip line with a significant overlap of clothing, since fullness in this environment was valued very highly, as a sign of a well-fed life.
What children's clothes of the period of Moscow Russia looked like is unknown. Most likely, she was again a simplified copy of adult models. But the samples of women's fashion of that time inspired many artists to create pictorial masterpieces (Korovin, Repin, Surikov). At the heart of the entire wardrobe, again, was a shirt, expanded from top to bottom due to wedges (the width could reach up to 6 meters below!). It was sewn from cotton or silk fabrics ( simple people- again from flax) and collected along the neck.
Fashionable suit ... weighing 15 kilograms
A sundress made of bright fabric with a vertical embroidered stripe in the middle was worn over the shirt, which was held on by narrow straps and often tied up under the chest. Outerwear for women in Russia of the 16th century was represented by a “soul warmer” made of bright fabrics, which was also held on the shoulders with straps. In the days of Muscovite Russia, ladies continued to wear ancient elements of clothing - a poneva, an apron, a zapon, etc. Representatives of wealthy families put on a "letnik", often with a beaver collar-necklace, and a fur padded jacket. Of the hats, the “kika” was popular - a hoop covered with fabric and a kokoshnik, in winter - a cap with decoration. The clothes of the noblewomen were almost always fitted, sewn from expensive fabrics with numerous embroideries, and their weight could reach up to 15 kilograms. In such attire, the lady was a static, sedate, partly monumental figure, which corresponded to the fashion and norms of behavior of that time.
The clothes of the 17th century in Russia were generally similar to the clothes of previous centuries, but some new structural elements also appeared. These include the entry into fashion of a wide sleeve, gathered at the wrist at women's shirts, the widespread use of shushuns - sundresses, to which two fake long sleeves were sewn on the back. Historians note that since the 17th century, a fashion has come to decorate the hem of a sundress with a strip and its disappearance from the front panel. During this period, Russia was little concerned with foreign fashion, only new fabrics and individual elements, such as the Polish caftan, were popular. It is worth noting that Russian society actively opposed the introduction of "German" fashion by Peter the Great at the beginning of the 18th century, since the proposed outfits, hairstyles and lifestyle did not correspond to the centuries-old way of life and trends in Russian clothing.
Russian national costume- a traditional complex of clothes, shoes and accessories that has developed over the centuries, which was used by Russian people in everyday and festive everyday life. It has noticeable features depending on the specific region, gender (male and female), purpose (holiday, wedding and everyday) and age (children, girlish, married woman, old woman).
With a general similarity in cut and decoration techniques, the Russian costume had its own characteristics. Russian folk costume represents two main types - northern and southern. In the north of Russia, the peasants wore clothes that were significantly different from the peasants in the southern regions. In central Russia, they wore a suit close in nature to the north, however, in some individual areas one could see a suit with features of South Russian clothing.
A distinctive feature of the Russian national costume is a large number of outerwear. Clothes cape and oar. The cape was worn over the head, the swing had a slit from top to bottom and was fastened end-to-end with hooks or buttons.
Encyclopedic YouTube
1 / 2
✪ Russian folk costume
✪ Russian folk costume
Subtitles
Men's clothing
The main men's clothing was a shirt or undershirt. Russian men's shirts of the 16th-17th centuries have square gussets under the armpits, triangular wedges on the sides of the belt. Shirts were sewn from linen and cotton fabrics, as well as from silk. The sleeves are narrow. The length of the sleeve probably depended on the purpose of the shirt. The collar was either absent (just a round neck), or in the form of a stand, round or quadrangular (“square”), with a base in the form of leather or birch bark, 2.5-4 cm high; fastened with a button. The presence of a collar implied a cut in the middle of the chest or on the left (kosovorotka), with buttons or ties.
In the folk costume, the shirt was the outerwear, and in the costume of the nobility - the underwear. At home the boyars wore maid shirt She has always been silky.
The colors of the shirts are different: more often white, blue and red. They wore them loose and girdled with a narrow belt. A lining was sewn onto the back and chest of the shirt, which was called background.
Zep - a type of pocket.
Refueled in boots or onuchi with bast shoes. Rhomboid gusset in step. A belt-gashnik is threaded into the upper part (hence stash- handbag behind the belt), cord or rope for tying.
The male Russian folk costume was less diverse than the female one. It consisted mainly of a shirt, usually a kosovorotka, decorated with embroidery or weaving along the collar, hem and ends of the sleeves, which was worn over trousers and girded with a woven or woven belt.
Outerwear
Over the shirt, men put on a zipun made of homemade cloth. Over the zipun, rich people put on a caftan. Over the caftan, the boyars and nobles put on a feryaz, or okhaben. In summer, a single-row was worn over the caftan. Peasant outerwear was Armenian.
The two main types of Russian women's costume are sarafan (northern) and ponyovny (southern) complexes:
- Sarafan - folk Russian women's clothing in the form of a dress, most often sleeveless. Sundresses differed in fabrics and cut.
- Poneva - loincloth, which was received by girls who had reached the age of brides and passed initiation.
- Zapona - girl's linen clothes made of a rectangular piece of fabric folded in half and having a hole for the head on the fold.
- Telogreya - clothing with fur or lining with long tapering sleeves, fastened in front from top to hem.
- Privoloka - a sleeveless cape.
- Shushpan - canvas caftan, with a red edging, sheathing, sometimes embroidered with a garus.
- Letnik - old outerwear for women.
Outerwear
Women's outerwear was not belted and fastened from top to bottom. Top output women's clothing there was a long cloth fur coat, with frequent buttons, decorated along the edges with silk or gold embroidery, and the long sleeves of the fur coat hung, and the arms were threaded into special cuts; all this was covered with shower warmers or body warmers and fur coats. Telogreys, if worn over the head, were called overhead.
Noble women liked to wear fur coats- women's coat. The coat was similar to the summer coat, but differed from it in the shape of the sleeves. The decorative sleeves of the fur coat were long and folding. Hands were threaded into special slots under the sleeves. If the fur coat was worn in sleeves, then the sleeves were collected in transverse assemblies. A round fur collar was fastened to the fur coat.
Women wore boots and shoes. Shoes were sewn from velvet, brocade, leather, originally with soft soles, and from the 16th century - with heels. Heel on women's shoes could reach 10 cm.
fabrics
The main fabrics were: linen and linen, cloth, silk and velvet. Kindyak - lining fabric.
The clothes of the nobility were made from expensive imported fabrics: taffeta, kamka (kuftyr), brocade (altabas and axamit), velvet (plain, dug, gold), roads, obyar (moire with a gold or silver pattern), satin, konovat, cursit, kutnya (Bukhara semi-woolen fabric). Cotton fabrics (chinese, calico), satin (later satin), kumach. Motley - a fabric made of multi-colored threads (semi-silk or canvas).
Outfits in Russia have always been famous for their rich colors and patterns. Headwear was mandatory. The main forms of the costume were trapezoidal and straight.
By the costume it was possible to judge from which province, county or village the girl came from. Each type of clothing in Russia had its own meaning. There were everyday, festive, wedding, mourning costumes. Red clothes were considered the most solemn. At that time, the meaning of the words "beautiful" and "red" and in principle had the same meaning.
In Russia, all outfits were sewn from homespun fabrics, but from the middle of the 20th century they began to be replaced by factory fabrics, the fashion for which came from Europe with the appearance of Peter I.
What does a traditional Russian folk costume look like?
The northern Russian folk costume has some differences from the southern costume. In the north, it was customary to wear a sundress, in the south - a poneva.
The women's shirt was similar in cut to the men's. It was straight and had long sleeves. It was customary to decorate a shirt with patterns on the sleeves, on the bottom of the sleeves, on the shoulder and on the bottom of the product.
Despite the spread of European fashion so soon, the northerners retained some of the traditions of the Russian folk costume. The so-called "epanechki" and dushegrei were preserved. They were sleeved and quilted with wadding. In addition to the sundress, the northern costume was also distinguished by a brocade shirt, the very “epanechka” and elegant.
In the south, instead of a sundress, a poneva was used. This belt garment was made of wool lined with canvas. Poneva, as a rule, was blue, black or red. Striped or checkered fabric was also widely used. Everyday ponevs got off rather modestly - with woolen homespun patterned braid.
Poneva did not single out the female figure, but rather hid all her majesty and beauty due to her straight silhouette. In the event that the poneva outlined the waist, it was hidden with the help of an apron or a shirt lap. Often a bib was worn over a shirt, poneva and apron.
In general, the traditional Russian folk costume was multi-layered. As for the headdress, there were also rules for wearing it. Married women had to completely hide their hair, girls were allowed not to cover their heads at all. It was enough for an unmarried girl to put on a ribbon or a hoop. Kokoshniks and "magpies" were widespread.
A girl in a Russian folk costume always looked beautiful and majestic. She complemented her bright, feminine image with beads, earrings, various necklaces and pendants.
On the legs of Russian beauties one could see leather boots, cats, as well as the famous bast shoes.
 |
 |
|
 |
Skirt and apron in Russian folk costume
This item of women's wardrobe in Russia appeared much later than the poneva. Poneva was distinguished by the fact that her panels were not sewn together, and the skirt was sewn together and gathered at the waist into a belt. The skirt was of particular importance in the status of a woman. Married girls were allowed to wear a skirt that showed their feet. A married woman always covered her heels. A full woman in Russia was considered a symbol of health and prosperity, so many girls often wore several skirts for the holidays to appear more magnificent. The apron in the Russian folk costume also played an important role. Initially, he covered the dress while working. Then the apron became part of the Russian folk festive costume. In this case, it was sewn from white linen or cotton fabric. The apron was necessarily decorated with luxurious ribbons and embroideries.
The development of the Russian folk costume has a rich and long history, its components were formed back in the pre-Christian era, in close relationship with the architecture of Russia and pagan beliefs.
Description of Russian folk costume
Women's Russian national costume is much more interesting and richer than men's, because the idea of the people about femininity, beauty, family values is embedded in the female appearance. In the old days in Russia, the costume was one of the manifestations of folk applied arts and crafts.
The main elements of the Russian folk costume developed in ancient Russia. The main costume was a long shirt with a straight cut "shirt", which was sewn from homespun dense, with wide sleeves. Usually, a woman wore more than one such shirt (at least one more acted as underwear).
The clothes of a Russian peasant woman consisted of such a shirt, decorated with embroidery, which in Russian folk costume was usually placed on the sleeves, hem and shoulders. From above they put on a plain sundress, as well as an apron. The peasant costume was prepared with great diligence, usually in connection with labor holidays - harvest, haymaking, cattle pasture.
Details of Russian folk costume
A sundress is one of the main details of the folk Russian women's costume. An elegant version of it was worn complete with a shirt, apron, belted belt. Each locality had its own style of a sundress, and the patterns on it, like on other versions of Russian folk costumes, have their own characteristics. In the southern part of Russia, preference was given to red, which had many different shades. Embroidery on sundresses was done with gold threads and pearls.
The most common headdress of the women's Russian folk costume was a dense cap of various shapes, and usually richly decorated with embroidery and stones.
The girls wore hoops (soft or hard) of multi-colored ribbons. If unmarried girls could wear one braid or braided hair, then married ladies braided in without fail 2 braids and always wore a headdress.
The beauty and originality, originality and chastity of the folk Russian costume is also reflected in the modern world, so the elements of costumes in the Russian folk style have recently been very relevant in the global fashion industry and are increasingly appearing on fashion catwalks.
 |
 |
 |
 |
