The urban-type settlement of Lazarev is located in the Nikolaevsky district of the Khabarovsk Territory on the cape of the same name of the Nevelsky Strait, 7.3 km from Sakhalin Island.
The village of Lazarev originated as a fishing settlement. In 1939, 190 people lived here. In 1948, according to the decree Soviet government a fish factory is created, and the settlement receives the rank of an urban-type settlement. After the shock work of the fishermen, by the beginning of the 70s, the fish factory was liquidated. The creation of an active marine fishing base was inappropriate due to the remoteness from the production areas, the difficult navigation situation in the Nevelskoy Strait and the lack of land routes for year-round use.
During the Great Patriotic War In connection with the construction of the first stage of the Okhta (Sakhalin) - Komsomolsk-on-Amur oil pipeline, a settlement of operators arose, which was further developed after the commissioning of the second and third lines of the oil pipeline and the laying of a gas pipeline.
In 1951 - 1953 At Cape Lazarev, a large-scale construction of a railway tunnel was carried out by the Ministry of Railways at the narrowest point of the Nevelskoy Strait for the BAM to exit to Sakhalin. After Stalin's death in mid-1953, construction was stopped. According to the general plan of 1963, developed by the Khabarovskrayproekt Institute (1963), in the village of Lazarev in 1970, the population was planned to be 5.3 thousand people. The actual number was 2.5 thousand and decreased by 2014 to 1.2 thousand inhabitants. In the early 1970s, the settlement of Lazarev represented three independent settlements of seaport workers, timber industry workers, and oil pipeline operators (see figure). Due to the narrow departmental approach and the lack of a unified master plan, the settlements of oil pipeline operators and the timber industry were built within the protected and explosive zone of pipelines and were subject to resettlement. The scattered settlements do not allow creating a single social infrastructure.> |
To date, the village has a tank farm (a site for pumping Sakhalin oil), there are memories of a fish factory, the timber industry went bankrupt, but private traders are harvesting forests that have not yet been cut down. Sea port It does not work.
Modern view of the village Lazarev
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idea of building Sakhalin tunnel for over a century. On the initiative of the leader of the Soviet people, Joseph Stalin, a secret decree of the Council of Ministers of the USSR of May 5, 1950 was adopted on the construction of a tunnel and a reserve sea ferry across the Tatar Strait from Cape Lazarev to Cape Pogibi.
The construction of the railway tunnel was entrusted to the Ministry of Internal Affairs and the Ministry of Railways of the USSR (railway tracks, and tunnel work). The commissioning of the tunnel was scheduled for the end of 1955. The construction of railway lines and the tunnel was carried out mainly by parolees, as well as civilian specialists, military personnel and prisoners. By the beginning of 1953, the total number of railway builders on both sides of the strait was more than 27 thousand people. The preparations for the construction of the tunnel were to take 3.7 thousand people. By the spring of 1953, the first shaft on the mainland, 8.5 meters in diameter and 80 meters deep, was completed.
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By official version after the death of the Soviet leader Joseph Stalin, due to the mass amnesty of prisoners, work was curtailed. But in the memoirs of eyewitnesses, this version is rejected, since most builders waited another eight months for the resumption of construction. It turns out that the construction was closed by new petty Kremlin leaders to spite Stalin and the inhabitants of Sakhalin.
In 1973, to the south of Cape Lazarev, the Vanino-Kholmsk railway ferry began to operate, since the main industrial potential of Sakhalin is located in the southern part of the island.
“You can’t understand Russia with the mind.” The Sakhalin Region continues to experience transport problems. There is no stable year-round connection with the mainland, especially in winter and in stormy weather, when ferry service stops.
The idea of building a tunnel or bridge periodically appears and fades (for example, in 1992, 2000, 2008). In 2013, the next feasibility study of the railway bridge was approved.
About the Sakhalin tunnel, Russian TV shows are periodically arranged with dreams of its next construction. Probably, dreams will come true after the normalization of relations with Japan, which can get a transport outlet to Siberia and beyond, as well as after the construction of a bridge across Kerch Strait to Crimea.
In Vladivostok, one of the world's largest cable-stayed bridges to Russky Island with a permanent population of just over 5,000 inhabitants was built at an accelerated pace. For a century now, the country has not been able to build a tunnel or a bridge to Sakhalin, where in 1990 almost 700 thousand inhabitants lived, and 470 thousand remained with the excessive development of wild capitalism.
Cape Lazarev
On one of the last days of August 1950, under heavy guard with dogs, we were taken to the freight station of the Second River, where they were loaded into stinking freight cars. There was no bed, only two-story bunks made of boards; here, in the carriage, there is a toilet, or rather, a tray in the ajar door. It was still hot, but they didn't let me drink. There was no food on the first day either. This is how the train took us into the unknown, and only by the end of the third day we began to vaguely imagine where we were being taken. But nevertheless it became known that impenetrable taiga awaits us. After a trip in a freight train in the city of Sofiysk, Nizhne-Amur Region, we were reloaded into cars - and on our way. On the way we learned that they were taking us to build a tunnel under the Tatar Strait. We were sitting in cars for thirty people, driving for more than a day. And here is the final destination - Cape Lazarev. This is the easternmost point of our country. The distance between the cape and Sakhalin Island through the Tatar Strait is eight kilometers. Even before the revolution, political people fled through these places, and the song “A tramp from Sakhalin ran along a narrow bear path” was born here. We did not see the tunnel. The tunneling work was classified and was called "construction 500".
So, Cape Lazarev, building 500. The camp has just been built. The barracks are cut from unskinned logs, with two-story bunks made of poles. They took me to work on the second day - to lay a road in the impenetrable taiga. But it didn't look like a highway, but rather like a railroad track. Tools - hand saw, shovels and crowbar. It was necessary not only to cut the forest, but also to uproot stumps, remove the vegetation layer of the earth and make an embankment with ditches. Eight hundred people were driven to this site. The path was long, almost seven kilometers one way, walking back and forth.
800 meters of finished railroad tracks were made per day. Technique - a prisoner's wheelbarrow. A lot of time had passed, and there was nowhere to wash, and besides, winter had come. Lice divorced. I wore a vest instead of an undershirt, so many lice have spread in this vest that it’s scary even to remember. The lice did not let me sleep peacefully, and in the morning I had to go to work. There was a rumor that the road we were building would lead to a tunnel, but no one knew how many meters to build. Work was carried out at an accelerated pace.
One of the Sundays we rested in the camp. A fire was burning on the territory of the camp, and I decided to get rid of the lice: I took off my vest and burned it, but the lice almost did not decrease, they crawled over the outer clothing. I don't know if it's related to lice or not, but an epidemic broke out in the camp. Many got sick. Strongly ill people were not driven to work, they remained in the zone. Those who remained in the zone burned lice at the stake, shaking linen over the fire. There were Estonians, Latvians, Tatars, Russians, Uzbeks, Georgians and prisoners of other nationalities in the camp. All were weak and emaciated, the Russians were more resilient. There is no need to talk about nutrition, they fed poorly, this is evidenced by the camp proverb: "Construction 500, gruel - 500, bread - 500"; they asked where the construction site was “two hundred kilos”. Yes, indeed, they gave 500 grams in total, and the construction site was also numbered 500.
At work, day after day, months of deprivation of not only freedom, but also all human rights passed. I fell ill with scurvy, my right leg was paralyzed, blood oozed from my mouth. My situation turned out to be critical, but I always remembered the black day. I kept 100 rubles in a hiding place (in a book), gave this money to the doctor, he gave me five or six injections of ascorbic acid within ten days, and I began to get out of a difficult condition.
To whom will you tell this: here you are lying sick, no one needs you, and no one can help you.
Moreover, you know that your relatives are being persecuted for you. You think like that, and life becomes meaningless. Such a terrible state of mind embraced many. There were cases of self-hanging.
After being cured, I went to work in the lumberyard, because with my sore leg I could not work on the construction of the road. In the workshop he dragged boards, drove sawdust in a wheelbarrow. The workshop produced carpentry for the camp and for the construction of the Ministry of Railways (Ministry of Railways).
Initially, there was no correspondence, in all likelihood, our letters were burned by the administration, but then, it seems, they allowed two letters a month. Here I remembered the code and decided to write to my wife where I am and how I can get to Cape Lazarev. The letters were checked, the censor was the camp's detective, Nadeikin, but our code was not subject to decryption and did not even arouse suspicion in the camp administration. Then, after a couple of months, I was convinced that my wife knew everything about me for sure. In our letters, we, the prisoners, wrote that we were living well, the food was excellent, and we were treated well. What can you do? Write the truth - they will deprive you of correspondence. I have already received money transfers from my wife several times. For money he bribed himself with food: bread, sugar, canned fish. Bought some underwear. At work, I gradually got rid of lice.
It was the summer of 1951. It became known that a large amount of work is planned for the construction of a dam and railway across the Tatar Strait. But no one knew how it would all work out. Not so much time has passed, as we are at Cape Lazarev, but how many events have already taken place: cases of self-hanging, thieves hacked to death a prisoner-economist with an ax, two were stabbed to death, several people were already stabbed, and one day the thieves escaped.
I heard a lot about the escapes of revolutionaries, convicts, but here, it seemed, there was nowhere to run: everything was blocked, there was water and secret posts all around, and suddenly - an escape. To be honest, it even became easy on my soul: there is still strong people able to find bold solutions in any situation.
Here are a few words about them.
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For the first time they started talking about the exceptional geographical advantages of Cape Lazarev in 1881, when the first telegraph line was being laid between the mainland and the island. She worked for twenty years. In 1902, a party of convicts laid a new underwater cable. As one of the workers who serviced this line recalls, there was nothing on the cape except for the signalmen's house.
In 1918, which was marked by the beginning of the Civil War and foreign intervention, a Japanese fish processing base appeared here. When the Japanese left the Far East, a fishing camp settled in the same place, and later a fish factory specializing in salting herring.
The small, seedy village of Cape Lazarev, named after the 19th-century naval commander and navigator Mikhail Petrovich Lazarev, suddenly gained all-Union fame in connection with the industrialization of the Far East.
Pipeline
The plans of the first Soviet or, as they were then called, Stalinist five-year plans included the construction of a Khabarovsk oil refinery, which was supposed to work on Sakhalin oil. Thus, the idea of laying an oil pipeline from the fields to the mainland arose. And a piece of the oil pipeline appeared ...
By the autumn of 1931, a 30-kilometer oil pipeline was built from the Okha oil fields to the port of Moskalvo, including four large reservoirs in the port. American pipes and equipment were used.
In 1935, the Khabarovsk Oil Refinery was launched, in 1939 the construction of the Komsomolsk Oil Refinery began. Delivery of raw materials was carried out by oil barges in a short period of northern navigation. In March 1939, a line appeared in the third five-year plan: to build an oil pipeline to Komsomolsk-on-Amur.
The Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks and the Council of People's Commissars issued a resolution on the construction of the first stage of the oil pipeline from Okha on Sakhalin to Zimmermanovka on the Amur. The construction was entrusted to the People's Commissariat of the Oil Industry of the USSR. A special building management No. 15 with four sites, one of which was located in the village of Cape Lazarev. Work force- Special settlers and prisoners.
In August 1940, the site began work. A zone was built - a camp site for 250 people, the construction of a garage began. We received the first 240 tons of pipes, as well as cars, all-terrain vehicles, tractors, electric welding units.
But the first results of the work turned out to be deplorable: the plan was a failure in all respects. And soon the war began. The regional authorities came out with a petition to the Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks and the Council of People's Commissars of the USSR to transfer the construction site to the jurisdiction of the NKVD.
In August 1941, when things at the fronts were not in our favor, the construction of No. 15 was transferred to the Main Directorate of Railway Construction of the NKVD. Specifically, the Lower Amur camp. At that time, it was led by Vasily Arsentievich Barabanov, who, remarkably, was not a party member. In the novel Far from Moscow by Vasily Azhaev, he is bred under the surname Batmanov. As you know, Azhaev was a direct witness to the construction.
Before starting the laying of the oil pipeline, a road had to be built along the future route. The so-called log cabins were built mainly from logs. But the most difficult part is crossing the Nevelskoy Strait. It was carried out by EPRON - an expedition of underwater works for special purposes.
The project provided for welding pipes on the shore in lashes of 100-200 meters and dragging them onto barges from the shore. Welding the end of the whip lowered into the strait to the next was planned directly in the water. But nothing came of this venture, except that three hundred meters of then priceless American pipes were drowned.
Then the builders decided, at their own peril and risk, to pass through the strait not in summer, but in winter. As the results showed, it was an outstanding engineering solution.
A level ground was prepared on the shore. There they cooked lashes from pipes - sections not 100 - 200 meters each, as was the project, but 1000 - 1200 meters each. Then they were cleaned, after which several layers of insulation were applied to them. A petal sleeve was welded onto each joint of the section for connection with another lash.
To lay pipes in the strait, it was necessary that the thickness of the ice reached 45 centimeters. Otherwise, it is impossible to use heavy equipment on the ice. The only thing left was to wait. And only in mid-March, when the ice reached the required thickness, they began laying.
The finished whip-section, more than a kilometer long, rolled onto trolleys placed on rails at a distance of 35 from each other. At the same time, a sleigh was tied to the whip. It turned out a huge structure resembling a caterpillar.
The pipe was filled with water so that it sank to the bottom. Then divers descended into the strait. They checked, meter by meter, how the pipe lay down. It had to be in close contact with the ground. If an unevenness was detected, the divers broke it with a jet of a hydromonitor.
After thirty years of operation of the oil pipeline, it was necessary to repair the damage to the pipe in one of the shallow sections of the bay. The divers saw the insulation of the pipe, which looked as if it had been laid in aggressive sea water only yesterday!.. In addition to laying the pipe across the strait, a diesel pumping station was built in Lazarevo. It still works, of course, no longer on American equipment from the 1940s.
On November 2, 1942, the oil pipeline was put into operation. It was built by prisoners and special settlers, early releases and civilian employees. It operated until 1985 - forty-three years of continuous operation.
The oil pipeline, commissioned in 1977, worked for only eighteen years, and with several serious accidents. Although, logically, it should have been the other way around, because during the war the oil pipeline was built mainly by forced laborers, with primitive mechanization, with a lack of everything and everyone. In 1977, the oil pipeline was laid by people who came to the construction site of their own free will, using the most extensive mechanization. And here you go!..
Probably, it's not just fear and bondage. Conscience, responsibility, attitude to the results of one's work - they either exist or they don't. In any conditions!
On May 5, 1950, the Council of Ministers of the USSR adopted a resolution on the construction of a railway line from the mainland to Sakhalin with a length of 863 kilometers. Under the Nevelskoy Strait, in the narrowest part of the Tatar Strait, it was decided to break through the tunnel.
For the execution of the decree, construction No. 6 was created with the subordination of the Glavtonnelmetrostroy of the Ministry of Railways. Nikolai Alekseevich Ermolaev was appointed head of construction, under whose leadership a tunnel was laid under the Amur near Khabarovsk.
The first builders who appeared in the village of Cape Lazarev were soldiers and officers of the engineering and construction battalion, transferred from Blagoveshchensk. It is impossible not to be amazed at the scale of work, the funds raised and the number of people. Three car depots for 700 vehicles, two repair plants, 27 boats, two mechanical plants, an oxygen plant, a central power plant and five power trains, compressor stations ...
The tunnel was supposed to pass from Cape Sredny on the mainland to Cape Perish on Sakhalin. It was an exceptionally difficult engineering challenge. Moreover, first you need to build housing for about ten thousand people, roads, moorings, freezers, since the sinking of mines was supposed to be in a frozen zone. In general, it was necessary to build an industrial town on the site of a run-down settlement, where there was neither electricity nor radio.
By the end of 1951, 16.5 thousand people were already on the construction site, and 19 thousand with family members. In 1952, the preparatory work was completed. A cinema with 500 seats was built. There are nine medical institutions, two schools for working youth. A large-circulation newspaper "Forward" is published, the radio newspaper " Shout of construction».
Both from the mainland and from Sakhalin, dams and islands are being dumped - future mine sites for tunneling. At the beginning of 1953, the shaft of mine No. 1 on the shore with a depth of 55 meters was already passed. Shafts No. 2 and No. 3 were laid on man-made islands in the strait. By December 1955, the tunnel should be ready.
Stalin dies on March 5, 1953. The authorities in the Kremlin are in confusion. And like a bolt from the blue, a decree of March 25, 1953 appeared to stop the construction of a number of large facilities "not caused by the needs of the national economy." Among them was the tunnel under the Tatar Strait.
Today, sixty years later, when these lines are being written, the question of building railway track to Sakhalin. And then a huge construction site was abandoned. Mine No. 1, where the tunneling was carried out with might and main, was mothballed. Mass layoffs began: almost six thousand people were sent to Sofiyskoye by motor vehicles, to De-Kastri and Nikolaevsk-on-Amur - by the construction fleet.
Construction management calculates the cost of liquidation. The cost of dismantling machine-building equipment exceeds one million rubles. Cleaning, sorting, repairing overalls and bedding before being sent to the bases are estimated at 640,000 rubles. The expenses for the maintenance of all liquid committees amount to almost six million of those full-fledged, and not today's, depreciated by a thousand times, rubles.
From Moscow, the head of construction is instructed as follows: “... Dismiss everyone except the apparatus of the liquidation committee. Donate medicines to local organizations. Find organizations willing to accept food, clothing, trade goods. ... Look for organizations for horses. All non-stock materials, low prices, office equipment, tools ... sell to any organization.
This is no longer a planned economy, but panic, as when fleeing from the battlefield ...
From the report of the construction department No. 6 for 1953. “The Decree of the Council of Ministers of the USSR dated March 25, 53 found construction in a period of wide scope and high pace of work ... By the time the Decree was issued, 25 types of cargo from almost 3,000 suppliers worth 43 million rubles were on the way. At the central bases and at construction sites there were materials and equipment - 85 thousand tons in the amount of 1,000 million rubles. By the time the Decree was issued, construction had 392 residential buildings and 204 non-residential buildings in the housing and communal services sector. All had radios and lighting.
During the liquidation period, about 19 thousand people were evacuated in 1953 ...
6 million rubles were approved for liquidation, but 42 million have already been spent.”
And these huge expenses were made under the guise of saving public funds!
The year 1954 has come. Something had to be done with the dams that had been built in the strait and the artificial islands in the strait that had been overhauled and designed to last for decades. If we translate the millions spent then on the destruction of construction into today's prices, then it will be many hundreds of billions of rubles. The construction site was ruined, but meanwhile the problem of communication between Sakhalin and the mainland remained.
Only twenty years later, in 1970, the construction of the Vanino-Kholmsk ferry began. Three years later, the crossing was launched, but there was no full-fledged reliable connection with the island, and there still is not. The ferry crossing is completely dependent on the weather.
This is what a block opens up when you delve into the history of Cape Lazarev ...
Andrey KIKLIVY.
Photo by Sergey BALBASHOV.
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