Greenhouse heating structures. Water heating of the greenhouse - design features, choice of pipes

Heating the greenhouse is the key to getting a good, timely harvest. Many gardeners use water heating of the greenhouse, due to which it is possible to create in buildings of this type the temperature regime necessary for full growth. Such systems are relatively cheap, and the operation is quite simple. And how to make water heating in a greenhouse on your own, you will learn from this publication.

System Benefits

For many years, horticultural farmers could not come to a consensus on what type of greenhouse heating is the most acceptable and profitable. Of course, the selection of a heating system for buildings of this type largely depends on the primary conditions, in particular on the possibility of connecting to a centralized gas or water main. But still, in recent years, water heating in the greenhouse has been most often used.

When choosing a greenhouse heating, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the structure, the heating system in a nearby residential building and the size financial resources, which will go to the arrangement of the shelter.

The water heating device is notable for the fact that it is powered by a boiler operating on any type of fuel:

• gas;
• electric;
• solid fuel;
• liquid fuel;
• combined.

In simpler terms, to perform water heating for a greenhouse, you can use all kinds of materials, which greatly reduces costs. And in order to implement water heating of the greenhouse with your own hands, you need to draw up a work plan, where there is a scheme, development projects, based on which the construction will be erected.

The main advantage of such a system is safety (when compared with electric cable and heating devices), and the creation of a humid environment.

Since cellular polycarbonate does not accumulate condensate, the resulting moisture completely drains into the ground, additionally moistening it.

VIDEO: How water heating of a greenhouse works from a gas boiler

Pipes - what should they be

To make water heating for subsoil and overground heating, it is possible to use two types of pipes:

1. Metal. There are many options in this category, but corrugated stainless steel pipes are especially popular among them. They have a high heat dissipation, but at the same time you need to mount them very carefully, placing the system as far as possible from the rhizome of the grown vegetation. Thanks to this, it will be possible to avoid burns of the roots of seedlings and, accordingly, their death.
2. Metal-plastic and plastic. This version of the pipes is characterized by a lower heat transfer coefficient, but at the same time it does an excellent job of heating the structure even in winter.

Sometimes you can find water subsoil heating for greenhouses made of polyethylene pipes. But it should be understood that such systems are suitable only when the coolant temperature does not exceed 40 °.

Many prefer budget options in the form of greenhouse shelters of a small area, since large structures are very difficult and financially expensive to heat during the cold season.

It is a fact! If the greenhouse is an extension to a residential building, then it will take less effort and energy to warm it up.

Radiators as a source of heating in greenhouses are rarely used. Instead of such heating elements, gardeners equip their buildings with wide pipes, which are located directly under the arch of the structure.

It is considered optimal universal scheme pipeline laying - from two working circuits:

1. The first one lies under a layer of fertile soil and its task is to heat the root system of plants. The coolant temperature should not be higher than 30-40°C.
2. The second is laid along the walls of the room in order to heat the air directly. In order to control the temperature in the room, it is advisable to install an automatic thermostat that will maintain the optimum level.

Some gardeners install heating pipes under the ceiling for circulation, but this is not practical for large areas. Keeping in mind the laws of physics, warm air rises, and in this case it simply does not circulate. Near the soil, the air is quite cold, which does not have the best effect on the condition of the plants.

At what depth to lay the pipeline

Pipes, as mentioned above, in most cases are laid under the ground to a certain depth. This indicator is influenced by several points:

• type of crop grown (heat-loving, cold-resistant, etc.);
• preferences of the owner of the greenhouse structure.

Some gardeners lay the pipeline system to a depth of no more than 30 cm, while other owners of such buildings lay pipes 50 cm from the soil level. Both options are acceptable, it all depends on the temperature of the coolant.

It must also be remembered that if the pipeline system is laid too deep, then it will take a long time to create the optimal temperature regime in the room. Whereas in the case of a close location of pipes to the soil surface, the greenhouse will warm up quickly, but there is a risk that the root system, having reached its the largest, in contact with the thermal circuit will get burned. And this, in turn, hello to the withering and death of the plant.

Speaking of numbers, when laying the heating circuit to a depth of 50 cm, the warm-up time will be about two weeks. And with a contour depth of 30 cm, this figure will be reduced to 6 days. True, there is some caveat here. In the first case, to maintain the specified temperature conditions in the room, it will be necessary to turn on the system 12 hours a day, while in the second case, it is necessary to heat around the clock.

Water heating device

The furnace or heating boiler, as a rule, is located in the vestibule of the greenhouse shelter, less often in the building itself. The first option, when burning wood or coal, does not prevent moving around the greenhouse and carrying out any work on growing vegetation.

When locating the boiler in the greenhouse room, it must be taken into account that heat also comes from the heating element itself. Choose a place for the boiler with special care so that nearby plants do not suffer from excessive heating.

Algorithm for a water heating device in a greenhouse:

1. First of all, you need to calculate the pipeline system and decide what footage of pipes will be required to implement the task.
2. The next step is the construction of the foundation. If the heating of the greenhouse will be carried out at the expense of a brick oven, then a concrete foundation is needed under it. In the case of a metal heater, a steel or asbestos-cement sheet will fit.
3. After that, you need to remove the chimney from the heater. The joints of this element with the boiler (furnace) must be sealed using, for example, clay mortar.
4. Next, you need to take care of ventilation, without which it will not be possible to achieve a suitable microclimate in buildings of this type.

Only metal pipes of the same diametrical size are connected to the outlet and to the inlet of the heating device. And only at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the boiler, you can switch to plastic or metal-plastic pipes.

1. Before laying the pipeline assembly, you need to install an expansion tank at the highest point of the room in close proximity to the heating equipment. It is recommended to install an auto-air shut-off valve and a pressure gauge upstream of the expander.
2. After that, you can proceed to the installation of pipes. The method of laying the heating pipeline depends on the size of the room. The only thing I would like to add is that the step of laying the contour of plastic pipes should be at least 30 cm.

In order to prevent the escape of thermal energy into the ground, the heat-insulating layer is made of a material that does not allow moisture to pass through (for example, polystyrene foam). And on top of the thermal insulation, you can perform another layer of waterproofing, for which PET film is used.

Now you know how to make water heating in your greenhouse so that the soil and plants growing indoors are always in a suitable microclimate. A thorough approach to the implementation of the task will help you get a high-quality, timely harvest!

VIDEO: Water heating with a pump

The greenhouse is called the best option for growing vegetables and fruit crops in climates characterized by heavy rainfall, frost and partial winds. First of all, an early harvest from your greenhouse is collected thanks to the heating system, because for most plants solar radiation is sufficient only in the summer. If you plan to use your greenhouse throughout the year, like, for example, a winter garden, the question of how to make heating in a greenhouse should be key for you.

Why do you need a heating system

Have you set out to grow seedlings, herbs and vegetables in the spring months? Then a heating system is not needed to obtain a crop. But the cultivation of exotic fruits and fresh vegetables in severe frosts is not possible without special equipment in the building, because the minimum temperature that must be maintained in the greenhouse is 18 degrees above zero. And in this case, one cannot do without impenetrable and warm walls.

The most budgetary way to heat a greenhouse is if a heating main is laid under the summer cottage. Then find the right place, and the problem of how to conduct heating in the greenhouse will be solved forever. In other cases, it is more difficult to organize heating in such a structure, but it is quite realistic.

To begin with, it is necessary to understand what methods of home-made heating of greenhouses are possible today. There are three types of heating: biological, solar and technical. There are many known methods of heating according to the latest technique, and you can choose any. Stove heating, natural gas, electricity, hot water can be used.

Solar heating and batteries

The task for greenhouses and greenhouses is to create a microclimate that is favorable for good growth plants. Required humidity and heat are the main indicators favorable environment. The cheapest way to heat greenhouses is solar.

The sun's rays penetrate through the transparent cover of the greenhouse, heat the soil and objects in it, and the air warms up from them. The main task of the gardener is to choose a place for the greenhouse that will be the most illuminated during the day.

If it is not possible, then preference should be given to a place where the sun shines in the morning so that the earth warms up from the beginning of the day. And the temperature in the greenhouse will rise to the maximum level in the evening. A place for a greenhouse must be chosen without drafts so that the coating does not cool. Additionally, it is recommended to create obstacles for the wind.

When choosing the shape of a greenhouse, it is better to give preference to an arched vault, because such a shape contributes the least to heat loss. To ensure the best warming of the soil, the height of the greenhouse should not be made too high.

You can arrange the heating of the greenhouse with the help of solar heat accumulators. First, dig a 15 cm hole in the greenhouse and cover the ground with a layer of heat insulator. Place a waterproofing layer on top polyethylene film.

Then coarse-grained wet sand should be laid on top and covered with dug soil. Due to the energy of the sun, which accumulates, this simple device will allow maintaining a satisfactory temperature in the greenhouse even at a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius.

air heating

The simplest option for heating greenhouses or hotbeds is a primitive air heating device. To do this, take a piece of steel pipe, which has a diameter of 50-60 centimeters and a length of about 2-2.5 meters. Enter one end of the pipe into the film greenhouse, under the other - make a fire.

And the last thing to do is keep the fire constantly burning. The air in the pipe will quickly heat up, then it will enter the greenhouse and give off heat to the grown berry and vegetable crops. Such a method of heating is indeed easy, but completely inconvenient, because fire is constantly needed.

Heating with gas

The advantage of gas is its stability in terms of supply, but the final price of greenhouse products will really surprise you. Therefore, if heating a greenhouse with gas during the winter cold lasts only a few weeks, then pulling a wire from a residential building and buying expensive pipes is not at all necessary. It is enough to take a few cylinders for this purpose, they will last for a long time.

Remember that an excess of carbon dioxide does not affect the condition of plants in the most positive way, and therefore such a greenhouse must be well ventilated. In order to remove combustion waste, it is recommended to use an exhaust device to ensure a constant supply of oxygen to the greenhouse.

So that the lack of oxygen does not provoke the cessation of the combustion process and the release of gas into the air, it is better, of course, to purchase heaters that are equipped with an automatic protective device. As soon as the gas supply to the burner stops, the sensors will immediately work.

Installation of a solid fuel boiler

The heating system in the greenhouse can be organized using a solid fuel boiler. The boiler itself can be installed directly in the greenhouse itself or in a separate room. The advantages of the second option are that you can put fuel or firewood into the boiler without entering the greenhouse structure. In addition, the boiler and fuel will not take up valuable space in the greenhouse.

It is necessary to put fuel into the heat generator twice a day, nothing more is required. And at the same time, such a boiler is absolutely fireproof, and therefore it can be safely left at night without any control. In addition, fuel consumption is quite small. And the minus of heating a greenhouse using a solid fuel boiler is that the device produces a little energy, which would not be superfluous in a greenhouse.

Stove heating

The technical method of heating greenhouses involves the installation of special furnaces. Such designs are suitable for use in rooms that have an area of ​​​​approximately 15 square meters. There are 2 technologies for heating a greenhouse using a stove.

First option

The simplest greenhouse stove consists directly of the stove itself, a horizontal chimney and a chimney. To protect seedlings and vegetables from smoke and soot, as well as from temperature changes, it is customary to bring the firebox opening into the vestibule of the greenhouse. The chimney duct of the stove, passing under the racks, must be laid with a slight overestimation to the pipe (approximately 1.5 centimeters for each meter of chimney length) in order to create more effective draft.

Be sure to leave a sack hole at the entrance of the channel for removing combustion products into the chimney for cleaning and kindling the chimney channel before the stove is fired with low draft in bad weather.

The distance between the greenhouse walls, the stove and the chimney, according to the safety rules and the calculation of the heating of greenhouses, should reach 25 centimeters, and the minimum distance between the rack and the top of the chimney should be about 15 centimeters. After installing the stove, the chimney and the pipe inside the greenhouse must be whitewashed with chalk or lime. In the future, this will allow you to detect cracks in time.

Unlike electric heating of a greenhouse, classic stove heating is not so burdensome in terms of financial terms. So, you can build your own ordinary greenhouse stove with a horizontal chimney or a hog at no extra cost.

Second option

Take a large barrel, with a capacity of approximately 3 cubes. This will be some basis for future equipment for heating the greenhouse. In order not to rust, paint the barrel from the inside in two layers. Inside the barrel, it is customary to make holes for the chimney, stove, expansion tank and drain cock. The stove must be welded and inserted into the barrel.

A chimney should be removed from the barrel and a pipe 5 meters high should be installed on the street. A home-made expansion tank of about 20 liters is mounted on top of the barrel, which is pre-cooked from simple sheet iron. For the heating system, profile pipes 40 by 20 by 1.5 are used, which should be laid out on the ground at a distance of 1.2 meters.

So the pipes are laid out so that the soil near the roots of the plants warms up well. To circulate water in such a home-made greenhouse heating system, it is recommended to purchase a special pump.

You can heat the stove in a barrel using any wood, and the drain valve, which is located at the bottom of the barrel, is usually used to drain the water, of course, and also for the purpose of drip irrigation when the water cools down. To control the temperature in such a greenhouse, you can install an electronic temperature sensor inside it, and directly in the house - the digital display itself.

Water heating

Water heating is considered one of the most profitable methods for arranging home-made heating of a greenhouse in material terms. A water heater can be made by hand. There are two ways of such heating.

Solution #1

So, you will need a body of an old fire extinguisher that you do not need, the top of which should be cut off. At the bottom of the case, mount a heat electric heater TEN, which has a power of 1 kW. A similar unit can be taken from a samovar, which is powered by an electrical network. To make it possible to pour water into the electric heater, make a removable cover on top.

It is necessary to attach 2 water pipes connected to the radiator to the body. It is recommended to fasten the pipes with rubber sealing gaskets and nuts. To automate the operation of the heater, it is better to use an AC relay circuit.

As soon as the temperature sensor is triggered, it will close the contacts. The water heater will heat the water, which in turn will raise the temperature in the greenhouse. When the water reaches a certain level, the temperature sensor will work immediately and the relay power circuit will be broken. This will turn off the water heater. If you cannot find such a relay, you can use another greenhouse heating scheme, where the relay is equipped with contacts that do not pass current less than 5A.

Solution #2

In this case, a small amount of worn pipes, an electric welding machine and a heating element are used. In a convenient corner of the greenhouse, install a boiler that has a volume of close to 50 liters, and a 2 kilowatt electric heater. When heated, water will rise through the riser to the expansion tank, and will be supplied to the heating system, which is located around the entire perimeter. The system itself must be made with a slight slope of the pipes.

The boiler can be made from a piece of pipe, which has a large diameter, to which it is customary to weld the bottom with a flange. Connect the heating elements to the power cord plug and isolate securely. All joints between the body and the flange must be well sealed with a rubber gasket. From pipe scraps, make an expansion tank with a volume of up to approximately 30 liters. From both ends and from below, weld couplings for connection to the system and to the boiler riser.

In the tank itself, you need to cut a cover for topping up water, because its level will have to be constantly monitored. At the ends of metal pipes, threads should be made in advance to organize a convenient connection, then make a pipeline out of them. After that, it is worth grounding the boiler body using a flexible three-core copper wire, which is designed for voltages above 500 V.

Attach both wires to the heating element phases, and the third wire to the boiler body. By the way, for the period of cold weather, you can use special screens made of foil or other heat-reflecting material. When choosing any greenhouse heating project, it is recommended that you follow the safety rules and strictly follow the instructions.

Underfloor heating system

Heating in the greenhouse can be created using the "warm floor" system, which can be represented by several options, the choice of design depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building and operating conditions. Amateur gardeners often purchase the system in the form of a waterproof heating mat.

Benefits of underfloor heating

To create seedlings and adult specimens necessary conditions for their growth, it is customary to place a heating mat under the plant trays. In this way, a constant temperature in the greenhouse will be maintained. Heating mats come in different sizes, so you can always watch a video about heating greenhouses and choose an acceptable option for a greenhouse of any size.

The use of a heating cable will allow seedlings to be planted at an early time, to grow heat-loving plants in greenhouses and winter gardens that came to us from subtropical and tropical latitudes, to germinate seeds in greenhouses, and also to keep tubers, bulbs, seedlings and vegetables from frost.

Heating system installation requirements

When installing heating systems, you need to create a sand cushion that protects the cable from damage. These functions are performed by a protective grid. Instead of a sand cushion, other materials can be used to heat the greenhouse, for example, a concrete screed, which significantly increases the useful life of the system. The heating cable is usually laid on the width of the beds.

So that the soil does not dry out, it is recommended to be guided by the following requirements for the power of the "warm floor" system: 70-120 W / m2 - for heating a greenhouse with single glazing and 50-100 W / m2 - for heating a greenhouse with double glazing. The maximum electricity costs in greenhouses with year-round heating fall on winter months(November - March), minimum costs - during the operation of the system in the spring and summer.

Arrangement of a warm floor

Remove a layer of soil (approximately 40 centimeters) and apply a sand base. Lay a heat-insulating layer of moisture-resistant material. You can use polyethylene foam or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation will prevent heat from escaping into the soil. On top of the heat-insulating layer, it is customary to lay a waterproofing layer, for example, a plastic film.

After that, a layer of sand (5 centimeters) should be applied, poured with water and compacted tightly. Using a mounting tape or mesh, a wire is laid with a “snake”, which must be covered with sand to a height of up to 10 centimeters. The recommended minimum sand coverage is 5 centimeters. The cable laying step is about 15 centimeters.

Lay a chain-link mesh on top of the sand layer, which creates reliable protection of the wire from mechanical damage, and pour fertile layer soil, which has a height of 30-35 centimeters. In order to protect the cable from overheating, it is worth using a thermostat with a ground temperature control sensor, which is installed in a corrugated tube.

Temperature regime

The "warm floor" system includes a thermostat with a ground temperature sensor, which allows you to set the heating temperature. For the development of crops, the most favorable temperature regime is 15-25 degrees above zero. For growing seedlings in greenhouse conditions, including in peat pots, the optimum temperature is about 30 degrees Celsius.

Using the regulator, you can set the temperature of the soil heating - for example, 20-25 degrees. After heating the soil to the specified parameter, the device automatically turns off, when cooled, it automatically turns on. The system eventually works as the temperature rises and falls, which saves at least 30% of electricity.

Thus, large agro-industrial and household household plots that grow flowers, herbs and vegetables have to equip a heating system in such structures with their own hands to maintain an optimal microclimate in the room at any ambient temperature.

The greenhouse allows you to get a crop when other gardeners are still watering or planting their plants. The greenhouse allows you to grow early products thanks to the heating of the greenhouse with your own hands, since the heat of the sun allows the crop to grow only in summer time. Thanks to this design, fresh products can be grown even in winter. The minimum allowable temperature in the greenhouse should be +18 degrees. However, in order to obtain such conditions, impenetrable walls alone will not be sufficient.

The most economical will be the installation of a greenhouse in the place where the thermal route passes. In such a situation, it is only necessary to find the most suitable place and you can proceed with the construction of the greenhouse. In other situations, the construction of a greenhouse will be a more complicated process, but it can also be done by hand - just like heating a greenhouse with your own hands.

Heating with solar panels

It is possible to heat a greenhouse structure and make home-made heating in a greenhouse using sunlight. The first stage in the construction of the greenhouse will be a hole in the hole about 15 cm deep. Next, the ground must be covered with a layer of polystyrene or other heat insulator. From above, this is all covered with a layer of polyethylene film to provide waterproofing. Wet sand is placed on the film and covered with earth. This type of device, although quite simple, can nevertheless maintain the optimum temperature in the greenhouse.

You can do in the greenhouse and simple air heating of greenhouses with your own hands. The simplest method for heating a greenhouse will be air heating - a good solution to the question of how to make heating in a greenhouse, which is described below:

1. You need to take a piece of steel pipe with a length of 2 to 2.5 m and a diameter of 50 to 60 cm.
2. Under one end of the pipe, you need to kindle a fire, and insert the other end into a greenhouse covered with a film.
3. The fire must be maintained at all times. The air in the tube will heat up fairly quickly, and the plants will get the warmth they need.

This method of heating, at the same time, is one of the easiest, but also the most inconvenient, since the fire must be maintained all the time.

Heating the greenhouse with gas

The main advantage of gas is that, in terms of supply, it is much more stable and accessible than a campfire. In order to heat the greenhouse in winter, it is not necessary to conduct gas from the house to the greenhouse, as this is not entirely advisable. Also, such a scheme for heating a greenhouse will require some costs. It is best to purchase several cylinders of gas, which should be enough. However, it is worth paying attention to the fact that too much carbon dioxide can cause plants not to grow as they should.

Also, poor ventilation of the greenhouse can also affect the negative growth of plants. It will also be necessary to install a means for extracting combustion waste into the greenhouse.

The heaters that will be used for your greenhouse must be equipped with special sensors.

They are necessary so that in the event of a cessation of combustion and the release of gas into the air, such devices immediately work and shut off the gas supply to the burner.

Heating a greenhouse with a solid fuel boiler

Such projects of greenhouses with heating can be located both in the greenhouse itself and outside it in any other room. The second option has some advantages, since in order to add fuel or wood to the fire, it will not be necessary to go to the greenhouse. The disadvantage of this option is that if the boiler were located directly in the greenhouse, it would also emit some heat.

In the heat generator, you need to add fuel only twice a day. In addition, from the point of view of fire safety, such a do-it-yourself winter greenhouse does not pose a threat. Thanks to this parameter, it can be safely left unattended all night. Another advantage of the boiler is that it requires a minimum consumption of fuel material.

Furnace heating of the greenhouse

Do-it-yourself furnace heating of a greenhouse, compared to electric, does not burden financial costs so much. A simple stove for a greenhouse can be easily built with your own hands, without actually spending any money.

The principle of the furnace for the greenhouse:

1. In the greenhouse vestibule, a furnace firebox made of bricks is laid out.
2. A chimney is laid out along the entire length of the greenhouse.
3. The chimney is removed from the greenhouse on the other side so that the carbon monoxide is weathered and the heat remains inside. The distance between the firebox of the greenhouse and its end side should be at least 25 cm. The distance from the bed with plants to the top of the hog should be at least 15 cm.

Before you build a greenhouse with heating with your own hands, you can explore another way:

1. We find a large barrel, with a volume of at least 3 cubes. Inside the barrel we paint in 2 layers to prevent the rust process.
2. Holes are made in the inside of the barrel, one of which is for the chimney, and the others for the expansion tank and for the tap.
3. We cook the stove and insert it into the barrel.
4. The chimney is removed from the barrel, and a pipe about 5 meters long is installed from the outside.
5. An expansion tank with a volume of 20 liters is mounted on the barrel, which must first be welded from ordinary sheet iron.
6. From a profile pipe, which has dimensions of 40x20x1.5 cm, the heating itself is brewed. The pipes must be laid out on the ground so that they are located at a distance of 1.2 meters. Such an arrangement of pipes will allow the soil to warm up in those places where the roots of the plants are located.
7. In order to ensure the circulation of water, for such home-made systems, it is necessary to purchase a special pump.

Hot water heating of the greenhouse

If we take the calculation of the heating of the greenhouse, then in comparison with other types, the arrangement of water heating of the greenhouse will be the most beneficial. Do-it-yourself water heating of a greenhouse - an electric water heater can be done simply:

1. It is necessary to take the body of the old fire extinguisher, and cut off the top of it.
2. A heating element with a working power of 1 kW is installed at the bottom of the fire extinguisher. Such a heating element can also be taken from an old samovar.
3. On top of the device, we make a removable type cover so that water can be poured into the heater.
4. We attach two tubes connected to the radiator to the body of the device. We fix the tubes with nuts and gaskets. In order for such a heater to work in automatic mode, you can use a circuit with a relay of alternating current and voltage of 220V.

Register of pipes, where there is water and electric heater inside

When arranging a heating system for a greenhouse or greenhouse, the most important thing is to comply with all necessary instructions as well as safety regulations. A video on how to equip a greenhouse with your own hands can be viewed below.

What gives us high-quality heating for a stationary greenhouse? Opportunity to grow crops all year round. It is for these purposes that many arrange greenhouse heating with their own hands from any materials - polycarbonate, glass, even films. To constantly observe and maintain a favorable microclimate for plant growth inside. The question "How to do it yourself, and what to consider?" remains relevant for many, so consider it in more detail.

Real and unreal ways of heating greenhouses

We want to figure out how to make greenhouse heating with our own hands from available materials, and even in an economical way?

Therefore, we will consider real, and not fantastic and too expensive options that can be found on an industrial scale.

1. Electric heating - by. There is such a method, and it even works very productively, but we can buy expensive potatoes, as well as tomatoes and cucumbers, on the market all year long - it will come out cheaper.
2. Gas is also not our option. Bringing a gas pipeline into place or storing cylinders on site is expensive, inconvenient, even dangerous. In addition, you will not be able to work with gas without specialists, you will simply be fined. It turns out that this is no longer the heating of greenhouses with your own hands, but with the involvement of professionals, where your destiny is “bring-give”.
3. with a hog - this is normal stove heating with a horizontal chimney. Very practical, accessible to all "Samodelkin", inexpensive. But "angry", albeit cheap. It is necessary to lay out the stove inside the greenhouse itself or in the vestibule, lay horizontal chimney pipes under the racks, ensure normal exit and draft. The downside is the long length of the homemade chimney, the obligatory fistulas in the joints and the penetration of a small amount of carbon monoxide into the greenhouses.
4. Do-it-yourself water heating in a greenhouse is a process of serious improvement in the stove version. Takes more time and costs a little more, but has a reasonable argument: high efficiency, safety and small costs for fuel. Especially if you put a pellet or pyrolysis oven.

Retreat advice!

Why pay attention to the latter option, especially with pyrolysis ovens? The stove, as already mentioned, has a high efficiency, but the main advantage, which is very important for modern summer residents, is the time between laying firewood. Or not firewood, but any other type of fuel, it doesn’t matter.

It is possible to put a liquid fuel boiler as a heating unit. It will also add advantages to your greenhouse heating system: it has automation of the combustion process itself, as well as a fairly long period of filling (refueling) fuel.

Do not forget about the "grandfather" methods of warming the soil, and additionally use natural products. For example, horse manure is a great way to warm up the soil without heating systems.

After being introduced into the fertile layer, horse manure will heat the soil in your greenhouse to +60 in a week, and then it will keep this temperature for at least another three months, and in general - up to 150 days! Isn't it better to buy horse manure from a neighbor in the country than to arrange a soil heating system under the racks? In this case, the heating of the air will suffice.

Practice: we make heating in the greenhouse

Initial data

We will take a polycarbonate greenhouse as “Dano”, and we will create heating with our own hands in the greenhouse from scratch. (See) Let the area be 25 m2, then it will be easy to push off in the calculations and technology for your own volume. And we will immediately take into account the possibility of the subsequent expansion of your greenhouse: you never know, you will like it, and you will also design a place for watermelons. Under the melon, that is.

We will not stir up manure, and we will consider that you did not purchase it. Well, nowhere, there are not so many horses in Moscow and the region! Then your heating system will consist of two circuits or parts:

1. Ambient air heating system.
2. Soil (soil) heating system.

Rationale

For what purposes is the warming of the soil necessary? There are roots in the soil, and the environment for them also needs to be heated. Soil is a much better conductor of heat than air. Accordingly, the cold.

If the optimal regime is not maintained, the plants will seriously slow down growth or simply die, and you will not have a single tomato in winter.

Warming up the ground is akin to the underfloor heating system in the house, but slightly different:

• A pipe through which water flows or hot air passes is laid in the drain or not. For drainage, it is preferable to use medium-sized expanded clay as the main material, and cover it with geotextile on top (such a special material that allows water to pass in one direction is sold in abundance in specialized stores). The cover is necessary so that the soil (soil) does not penetrate into the drainage.
• Instead of a concrete base in such a "heat-insulated floor system" - loose soil, which is also constantly moistened.

Variations on the air theme

We decided on the heating of the soil, now we need to choose a method of heating the air, that is, in fact, a heating option. Let's focus on two:

• The classic option: do-it-yourself heating of greenhouses with registers around the entire perimeter, completely welded from thick-walled pipes of a rather large diameter. The problem is in the material itself, which has recently seriously risen in price, and the problem is in a normal welder who will weld all the seams beautifully (in the sense, hermetically and for a long time). It will still work - not with your own hands.

When choosing this option, consider the biggest minus - the huge working volume of the coolant, and also the relatively small area where the heat exchange process takes place. The efficiency of your boiler in this case is greatly reduced.

• Batteries around the perimeter - there is less water in the system, and all the benefits associated with this moment. Including, you do not need to call a welder. The heat exchange area is large, the return is maximum. The efficiency is higher. You can install a variety of batteries, especially those that you removed from the house yesterday when you made a new heating system. It won't be expensive at all!

In general, it does not matter which batteries will be installed, because all will have approximately the same efficiency. When installing, keep in mind that the maximum coolant pressure will be no more than 1.5 bar, while almost any battery is designed to withstand a pressure of 5-6 bar. You can not really care about the strength of the connections. At least the paint does not need to be threaded.

Pipe question

Much attention must also be paid to the piping system so as not to spend more than is required for the normal functioning of the equipment. If you install radiators, it makes no sense to pull expensive metal pipes from the boiler to the batteries; you can get by with non-stacked polypropylene.

1. First, it's cheaper.
2. Secondly, polypropylene pipes do not corrode.
3. Plastic well withstands the "defrost of the system" when we "missed" and created an emergency. The ice that forms in the pipes during “defrosting” will not tear polypropylene, while the metal will fail not only in the joints, but also in the seams if the pipes are seam. If they are seamless, so much the worse: the gap will be in the most unexpected place.
4. Polypropylene is an excellent heat insulator, so the coolant will not lose temperature on the way to the radiator.

Lower wiring is preferable, especially during installation - the issue of the convenience of attaching pipes is being decided. Especially if the radiators are not mounted on flimsy polycarbonate walls, but are installed directly on the foundation with a bottom mount.

At the entrance to the radiators, it is advisable to equip the pipes with ball valves or thermal valves in order to regulate the temperature in different parts of your huge greenhouse for specific plants.

Boiler and chimney

With heating, this is not only hanging radiators and piping, but also installing a boiler with a chimney.

The heating boiler can be placed both inside the greenhouse itself and placed in the heated room itself, which will further increase the efficiency of the entire system. Heat transfer from the boiler to the surrounding space will be unambiguous, so the air temperature in the greenhouse will increase.

But in the first option, you can not go inside the greenhouse at all while loading the boiler with fuel. The second option not only increases productivity and efficiency, but also saves a lot of space.

Laying out a brick oven is not an option, because it will be too cumbersome and labor-intensive for a greenhouse, unless you have a regional greenhouse. Ready-made heating boilers are not so expensive, but they are compact, productive and easy to use. Boiler issue closed.

Now the chimney: this is perhaps the most important part of the entire heating system. Probably, it is worth putting the chimney on a light foundation, installing a supporting channel or pipe and attaching the main structure to them. This is for black pipes, that is, for ordinary material under the chimney.

We have dismissed the horizontal version of the chimney. Therefore, we do not expect high efficiency from the smoke removal system in terms of air heating. We make the chimney as short and reliable as possible in terms of sealing, so that combustion products do not get inside the greenhouse. It is best to buy a sandwich chimney and put it vertically directly from the boiler - then the foundation will not be needed.

Install the structure not higher than 7.5 meters, but not lower than 6 meters- this is the optimal height for good traction. Both the boiler and the chimney to it can be mounted according to a simple, classic heating scheme. And already connect the circuits to the boiler - according to your project.

Conclusion

A long-burning boiler is the best option that yours wants. With such a system, you will not live near the firebox's loading door, and the plants will grow in an optimal microclimate. The main thing that is needed for this is desire and a measured approach. Spontaneity is the lot of lazy people and adventurers!

What heating method is the most efficient, and how to arrange it? What is good about hot water heating in greenhouses, and can it be combined with air heating in greenhouses? We will try to answer these questions in this article.

Heating of greenhouses can be different:

• furnace;
• gas;
• electric;
• steam;
• water.

In order to rationally make greenhouse heating with your own hands, to provide plants with comfort for their growth, especially when heating a greenhouse in winter, you need to choose a type of heating system that will fully heat both the soil and the air.

Choosing a heating method

The right choice of heating method for greenhouses will also determine your future harvest. With this choice, you need to consider:

• greenhouse dimensions;
• type of home heating system;
• own financial resources.

It is important to observe the combination of the heating system with the type of greenhouse. So, it is well known that the heating of greenhouses made of film materials needs more heat than heating, since this material itself is a good heat insulator.

It is necessary to take into account the features of a particular system. For example, some of them, although highly effective, being extremely expensive, are completely unsuitable for standard small-area greenhouses. Other systems require installation and configuration by the hands of a professional. This is especially true for systems that use Hi-tech such as heat pumps, infrared heating, etc.

When tuning in to a greenhouse heating device on your own, you first need to “feel” how the process of such heating will proceed, take into account all its pros and cons when choosing a heating system.

Water heating of the greenhouse - what are its advantages?

The use of hot water heating of the greenhouse provides both air and soil heating at the same time. In the greenhouse, an optimum microclimate is established and maintained, and the air does not dry out, as is observed with other heating methods. At the same time, it is very important to provide the greenhouse with the right ventilation system, so we recommend that you also read the material in the article that will help you.

From an economic point of view, heating with water is more profitable, since heating can run on different fuels:

• on wood;
• on the corner;
• on peat;
• on household waste;
• industrial waste and other types of fuel.

Simply put, you can use everything that can burn for water heating in a greenhouse made by yourself.

The design of the heating of the greenhouse with water

The heating system consists of:

• heating boiler or furnace;
• pipes;
• radiators;
• expansion tank;
• chimney;
• circulation pump.

The choice of a heating boiler depends on the specific situation. In gasified areas, economical gas boilers are most popular. However, options for building systems with electric heating boilers and solid fuel boilers are also possible. The simplest option is a brick or metal stove that runs on coal or wood, which you can build with your own hands.

The water heated in the boiler is supplied to the pipes by a circulation pump. It is best to form two heating circuits from them.

• The first circuit is subsoil, consisting of plastic pipes with water at a temperature of about 30 ° C, laid in the root zone of plants.

• The second circuit is the heating of the under-dome volume of the greenhouse with the help of radiators.

The water in the system usually circulates forcibly under pressure created by the circulation pump, less often in a natural way.

Connecting do-it-yourself thermostats to the system makes it possible to maintain a certain temperature automatically.

Radiators, as well as pipes leading to them, can be according to the preferences of the owner:

• cast iron;
• bimetallic;
• aluminum.

In general, non-radiator systems are known in which the under-dome space of greenhouses is heated from round steel pipes with large diameter.

An expansion tank, either open type or closed type, is absolutely necessary, and can either be purchased ready-made or welded from sheet metal with your own hands.

The chosen method of obtaining hot water is from a boiler or from a metal or brick stove, the type of chimney is also selected. They may be:

• classic brick chimney;
• asbestos-cement;
• metal pipe.

If financial possibilities allow, then modern sandwich pipes can be used.

Is a circulation pump necessary?

The presence of a circulation pump in the water method of heating greenhouses is not unambiguous. Budget greenhouses often have water heating with natural water circulation due to the pressure difference in the system. So water heating can work both with and without a pump, everything is again determined by the financial capabilities of the owner of the greenhouse.

Sometimes, when the greenhouse is attached directly to the residential building itself, hot water from the in-house heating system enters its water heating. If the greenhouse is remote from the house, then in order to insulate the pipes passing along the street, significant investments of effort and money are needed, but this still does not guarantee complete protection of the pipes from the effects of low temperatures in the winter season. We recommend learning about .

Do-it-yourself water heating of a greenhouse (video)

Do-it-yourself heating system installation

The stove or heating boiler is usually located in the vestibule of the greenhouse, less often inside the greenhouse itself. In the first option, fuel (wood, coal) does not interfere with movement in the greenhouse and work with hands, as well as tools in it. But in the second option, the stove or boiler itself also radiates additional heat into the air. Therefore, choosing their location is the task of the owner of the greenhouse. For lovers greenhouse farms, will be interesting and .

• A foundation should be built under the boiler or furnace. For a brick oven, it should be made of concrete; for a metal stove or a small boiler, it should be made of steel or asbestos-cement sheet. It is only important that the heat source is stable and does not create a fire hazard.
• A chimney (flue pipe) departs from the furnace (boiler). The joints of its parts (elements) and the junctions with the furnace (boiler) are hermetically sealed with their own hands or with the help of assistants to prevent smoke from entering the greenhouse. If the joints are sealed with a mortar, then it is exclusively clay, since the cement will crack from the action of high temperature.
• The winter greenhouse should be equipped with ventilation, regardless of the heating method.
• Only metal pipes of the same diameter must be connected to the outlet and inlet pipes of the boiler. At a distance of a meter or a half from the boiler, plastic pipes can already be installed if the main pipeline of the system is made of them.
• Before installing the greenhouse heating system with water, an expansion tank is installed at the highest point of the building near the stove or boiler. For safety reasons, an automatic air shut-off valve and a pressure gauge are installed in front of it.
• Now you can mount the circuits of the heating system themselves: primary and secondary with radiators. Given that the running water circulates naturally due to the pressure difference created by hot and cold water, the outlet pipes from the furnace (boiler) should be placed in the middle between the mounted radiators.
• If the radiators are equipped with shut-off valves, then jumpers must be placed between the incoming and outgoing pipes from the radiators so that the disconnected radiator does not stop the operation of the entire system.

Will tell about the budget option of heating .

Basic rules for installing a subsoil heating circuit in a greenhouse with your own hands

• For underground heating it is better to use pipes High Quality made of cross-linked polyethylene, placed directly in the ground, and if the soil heating circuit is equipped with an automatic control unit, then it is possible to provide temperature conditions corresponding to different stages of plant development, which will significantly increase productivity.
• The soil heating circuit in the greenhouse resembles a “warm floor” system in terms of its design. The step of laying plastic pipes is at least 0.3 m, this must be taken into account if you mount such a system with your own hands.
• To prevent heat from escaping into the ground, a layer of thermal insulation made of a material that does not absorb moisture (for example, expanded polystyrene) is needed; for additional waterproofing, a plastic film is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer.
• Polyethylene pipes for soil heating are laid in a pillow of sand (washed and compacted) about 10-15 cm thick, which will contribute to uniform heating of the soil and prevent overdrying of the soil.
• The thickness of the layer of fertile soil to be filled up should be at least 30 - 35 cm.